Thanks Tony. I will definitely check Autozone out. Have a good week!
Wilbur
Tony Troidl wrote:
> nope, just pull the damper, the gasket kit comes with a small gasket and
> instructions to replace the small part of the pan gasket.
>
> BTW, if they have not yet updated their parts info, they MAY tell you they
> do not have the parts, but they DO!
>
> have them look up the needed parts for a 97 jeep wrangler.
>
> SAME PARTS...
>
> chain and sprockets was like $15 and Gasket kit was like $20 2 years ago
> when I had done mine
>
>
> Tony.
>
> www.helptonyout.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Wilbur <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
> To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:31 AM
> Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>
>
>
>>good point Tony....the parts are really cheap...probably a good idea
>>too....next time I have a day or two free, I may just do it for the
>>experience of it...at least if I do it, I will know it actually got done
>>this time :)
>>
>>Wilbur
>>
>>PS. If I were to change the timing chain out....will I need to drop the
>>oil pan too? I have noticed that the gasket sets have a separate gasket
>>piece for where the oil pan is attached...so I am wondering if I will
>>need to loosen it up to put the timing cover back on.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Tony Troidl wrote:
>>
>>
>>>I replaced mine at 180K and really had very little wear, but I had the
>>>engine apart anyways, so I changed it... since it was only lilke $15 for
>
> the
>
>>>chain and gears at Autozone I figured why not...
>>>Tony.
>>>
>>>www.helptonyout.com
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: Wilbur <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2004 5:52 PM
>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Hey Guys,
>>>>
>>>>Just wanted to say thanks again. I replaced the broken valve spring and
>>>>tested compression on the cylinder...it was around 150 psi...buttoned
>>>>everything back up and she runs like a champ again. You guys saved me
>>>
>>>>from the expense of a timing chain, sprockets and gaskets.
>>>
>>>>BTW, out of curiosity, what is the average life of a timing chain on the
>>>>4 cylinder 2.5L Daks? It seems to me it should have lasted more than
>>>>100,000 miles (thats when it was changed out--supposedly had gone bad).
>>>> I guess I could open it up and look at it...but how exactly would I
>>>>tell wear on it? Looseness? Oh well, have a good weekend!
>>>>
>>>>Wilbur
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Wilbur wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>That would be good. :) It would definitely make the job easier. I had
>>>>>to order the valve springs...none of the local parts places or the
>
> dodge
>
>>>>>dealership had any in stock...So the Dodge dealership is ordering some
>>>>
>>>>>from Dallas, I think.
>>>>
>>>>>FYI, when I started taking things apart, I noticed that the CCV vacuum
>>>>>tube was broken...so I had the dealership order one of those too...they
>>>>>had to order that little item from Detroit. :) I wonder why the 2.5L
>>>>>have a CCV (Crank Case Ventilation) vacuum tube instead of a PCV valve
>>>>>like the larger engines?
>>>>>
>>>>>Oh well....supposedly all the parts will be in by next friday so I will
>>>>>proceed at that time to replace the valve spring...Thanks for all the
>>>>>help guys--Cross your fingers and say a prayer for me. Hopefully this
>>>>>will bring my baby back to working order for a bit. You guys are
>
> really
>
>>>>>a great bunch of people. :) I'll let you know how it goes. Have a
>>>>>great weekend guys!
>>>>>
>>>>>Wilbur
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>at TDC.. maybe 3/4 inch max.. just my ballpark guess.. The cyl head
>>>>>>pockets
>>>>>>can't be that big.
>>>>>>Aaron
>>>>>>
>>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur"
>
> <bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>
>>>>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 10:59 PM
>>>>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Yeah I think I will start with replacing the one bad spring and go
>>>
>>>from
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>there...I wonder...at TDC, how far would the valve "fall" in if I
>
> were
>
>>>>>>>to replace the spring and I was unable to keep hold of the valve
>
> stem?
>
>>>>>>>Would it fall far enough in that I could not reach it or would enough
>>>
>>>of
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>the valve stem be sticking up to pull it back up? just curious.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Wilbur
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>Aaron Wyse wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>another way to hold the valve up is to fill the cylinder with a rope
>>>>>>>>(at
>>>>>>>>BDC) and then then give the crank a little bump to compress it a
>>>>>>>>little.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>Personally.. I would just replace the one bad spring.. then do
>>>
>>>another
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>compression test. If all is well. Drive it another 50K miles or so
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>before
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>I worry about anything else. Since a valve spring should not have
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>broken in
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>the first place, assume it as more of a fluke break than an actual
>>>
>>>high
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>mileage problem. Make sure you do a couple of oil change fairlu
>
> close
>
>>>>>>>>together.. just in case any particles of spring are circulating
>>>
>>>around
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>in
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>there.
>>>>>>>>Otherwise.. The valve may have actually damaged something that will
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>require
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>more work. And you'll need to go in deeper.
>>>>>>>>Also.. glad you found the problem
>>>>>>>>Just my opinions.
>>>>>>>>Aaron Wyse
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>----- Original Message ----- From: "Wilbur"
>>>
>>><bwgreen@ocean.otr.usm.edu>
>>>
>>>>>>>>To: <dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
>>>>>>>>Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2004 4:00 PM
>>>>>>>>Subject: Re: DML: replacing timing chain on 1998 dakota 2.5 liter
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>You bet I will. :) Ok currently....I put cyl #1 to TDC and
>>>
>>>injected
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>air into sparkplug opening....heard air hissing in valve cover...So
>>>>>>>>>removed valve cover, and wahlah, i see the first valve at the front
>>>
>>>of
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>the engine (facing the fan and radiator) has a busted spring. I am
>>>>>>>>>not
>>>>>>>>>sure if that one is the intake or exhaust valve spring, just that
>>>>>>>>>it is
>>>>>>>>>the first one in line. The valve has not dropped...it is still
>>>>>>>>>attached. The valve still could have "kissed" the piston, so to
>>>>>>>>>speak.
>>>>>>>>>So sounds like i need to replace that spring at the very
>
> least...and
>
>>>I
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>suppose I should replace the other one of the pair too? Should I
>>>>>>>>>replace all the valve springs and and locks and retainers and valve
>>>>>>>>>stem
>>>>>>>>>oil seals for all 4 cylinders or just for cyl #1?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>The push rods looked okay from cyl #1, not bent or anything and I
>>>
>>>have
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>the rockers, bridge and pivot assembly and bolts (also looked fine)
>>>>>>>>>sitting in a box in the correct order to put back on.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>As for replacing the valve springs...from what i can see online,
>>>
>>>some
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>peeps recommend using air pressure via the spark plug hole to keep
>>>
>>>the
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>valve seated while taking off the spring....I don't have an air
>>>>>>>>>compressor at all to maintain the recommended pressure (90psi) to
>>>
>>>keep
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>the valve seated. Any other recommendations to keep the valve
>>>
>>>seated
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>while I remove the spring? Could I tie some string to the valve
>>>
>>>stem
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>after I have it compressed to keep it from falling into the
>>>
>>>cylinder?
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>Oh and do the valve compressors you can get at autozone and
>>>
>>>O'reillys
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>>work for this kind of job? Thanks.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Wilbur
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>Josh Battles wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>""Rick Barnes"" <barnesrv@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>Josh,
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>You blew a ring for that very reason..once you did the great
>
> valve
>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>job,
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>you
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>increased the compression in the cylinder and the weakened rings
>>>>>>>>>>>could
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>not
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>hold the increased compression..viola, broken rings...common, and
>>>>>>>>>>>your
>>>>>>>>>>>advice is right on, (in my humble opinion). If you do a valve
>>>>>>>>>>>job, at
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>least
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>replace the rings too.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>Rascal
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>that's what my uncle told me... (ase master certified mechanic)
>>>
>>>after
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>fact, and while he was helping me replace the rings and smooth out
>>>>>>>>>>the
>>>>>>>>>>slight cylinder wall scoring. If I was gonna do it now, I'd do it
>>>>>>>>>>all
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>at
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>once and save myself the extra headache later on.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>learn from our mistakes Wilbur! If you end up having to have
>>>
>>>valves
>>>
>>>
>>>>>>>>done,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>do the rings now too so you don't have to do them later.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Feb 01 2004 - 16:29:51 EST