I dont remember if the bypass tube or whichever you are talking about was
oringed or not, I dont think it was. Its pretty straight forward, just
unbolt everything and put it all back. Just make sure you clean the mating
serfaces really well and should about do it really, get yourself a scraper
and or some gasket remover spray. Be carefull not to nick the surface with
the scraper. Go ahead and get that really short bypass 90 deg hose and
replace it while you've got it apart. You could even buy a pressure tester
to make sure that it is coming out of the weep hole of the pump and not just
a leaky hose, like that short 90 deg deal.
TJ
dakota52318@toad.net
1992 Dodge Dakota 4X4
3.90 Gears, Long Bed
318, 46RH Auto
DT Headers, Functional RamAir Hood
K&N FIPK, Flowmaster Muffler
Custom Throttle Body
MP Computer
Viper Electric Fan
15.74@87.59 b4 fan.
4350lbs
Vortech Supercharger in THE MAIL!!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAKSY" <rsmith13@nycap.rr.com>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2004 3:14 AM
Subject: DML: Leak & a bazillion questions...
>
> Hey, DML!
>
> I crawled under the DAKSY last nite for the 84K oil change & it looks like
> my water pump gas sh*t the bed...
> Dammit... MAJOR leakage evident all over the bottom of the engine & cross
> member...I read the bible & looks like a direct enuff change out...I plan
to
> do the change-out myself.
> Anybody done this recently on the V6? How much time did it take?
> What's the cost for the pump?...Is the return tube o-ring replacement
> mandatory?
> Anything else, other than a new WP gasket needed?
> Do I really need the special tools cited in the FSM?
> TIA,
>
> Bob Smith (DAKSY2K on AIM)
> Averill Park, NY
> 2K DAK SY CC Sport + V6 4X4 5 Speed
>
> WebPage URL: http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
>
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