On Apr 10, 2004, at 1:12 PM, B1LLYW@aol.com wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 4/10/2004 1:09:25 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> acellan1@tampabay.rr.com writes:
>
>
>> Thanks for the input. Any idea who makes the spacers? His truck is
>> not
>> lowered.
>> TonyC
>>
>
> I honestly don't know. They may be custom jobs. I think most guys
> have
> opted for some grinding and seem to be able to get them to fit pretty
> well.
>
> Bill White - KRC Performance
>
> http://www.bionicdodge.com
>
> '95 Dakota CC 4x2 - 408 is done, truck isn't
> '03 Neon R/T - no mods yet
>
>
Ok, I was gone and I am catching up with this. The spacers are custom
and my truck isn't lowered either. I am running the stock r/t tire size
of 255/55/17 but when I get them changed out I am going to go to a
slightly different size. Not sure what size but a hair smaller since
the tires rub at full lock and that's it. It won't take much of a
reduction but a little. There was originally rub on the inside rear of
the wheel well just in from where you would mount splash guards but a
little banging with a hammer solved it and you cannot tell.
A 1/4" spacer clears on mine but it is still close at the very top. You
can either grind about an 1/8" off the very top of the a-arm or just
have the spacers made at 3/8" instead of 1/4" for a little better
clearance. Form using the spacers I am talking about drop spindles I
don't think would work but if you don't mind the wheels being a little
further out 1/2" spacers would clear.
The calipers have more than ample room in the stock configuration and
there is plenty of room to go with larger rotors and calipers if
desired.
The spacers I had made at one point were a custom job out of 1/4" plate
steel that were zinc coated but billet aluminum would be far better
since it lighter and doesn't need the extra step for protection. I
found a company in SoCal that would do my measurements for about $35
each out of billet, which isn't bad considering the material being
used. That company is Crow Automotive. Google them and they should show
up.
I do have detailed measurement I can provide if needed but I will not
be able to get them until monday at work. The reason for being custom
is the ones on the market are cheap cast aluminum that hardly any real
surface area and they don't go all the way out to the edge of the
contact area on the wheel and hub. I tried them and found that they
give a little vibration probably due the slight flexing of the rim when
mounted..
The other thing I have found is a custom lug that will save having to
deal with new studs. The lugs are not the cheapest but they fully solve
the problem of the spacers and loss of thread as long as the spacers
don't go any further than 3/8". What they are is a centric or ET style
lug. You can find many of these around but only one company I know of
at this point makes them in the correct bulge style lug. All the others
are simply acorn style which doesn't have the bulge and is the wrong
angle and the don't seat properly. I have a picture showing the
different ones with the new one if interested. The great thing about
these is the shank, which makes up for the spacers, fits right inside
the lug hole on the wheel which, turn, protects the lug holes on the
wheel from the threads on the studs.
I hope this helps out more and Jon it looks like I just need to do
write up with pictures of the truck, lugs, and a scanned image of the
template for the spacers. Let me know what you need to submit it. BBTW,
you ever get a chance to talk to that shop? Since I haven't had the
time to email you in a long time figured it would be a good time to ask
while it's on my mind.
If anyone needs any info or such just email me or post a question.
Jeff Durling
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