The reason most lowering kits reduce towing capacity is the limited travel
that is left after dropping the truck.
The way around this is increased spring rate springs. This makes for a much
rougher/stiffer ride which most are not willing to deal with.
The pinion angle change goes along with the changed geometry in the
driveline, and should be fixed to reduce wear.
Something else for you to consider is winter use in you r locale (Canada).
How much snow to you typically have to drive through? dropping the truck
also brings the nose that much closer to the pavement, and if too low, you
might find yourself plowing the streets.
TonyC
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Schultz <not_robert_schultz@yahoo.com>
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
<dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net>
Date: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:54 PM
Subject: DML: Suspension Choices - Just shocks, or whole hog?
>
>After ~72,000 miles (or 122K km) the stock shocks are well past their
>usable life. The trucks wallows on uneven pavement and the front tires
>skip when turning on broken surfaces.
>
>So, time for new shocks, but I figured that I could actually get a full
>lowering kit with new springs and shocks for not too much more than just
>the shocks. Shock would be $400-600 CDN and a Belltech kit is $400US.
>The Hotchkis TVS is $800US.
>
>I need help with the options though:
>
>1. Shocks only.
> From the responses in previous posts, there are tons of good choices.
>If I pair this up with new poly bushings the ride should be back to
>normal or fairly improved. Easy and safe.
>
>2. Lowering kit.
>This problem I have here is the reduction in load capacity and
>especially towing. I do tow up to the max a number of times per year. I
>gather from my (limited) research that the majority of the towing issue
>is due to the pinion angle and increased wear in the drive line. Is that
>correct? If so, doesn't a shim resolve this? If so, why didn't Dodge
>just do this for the R/T?
>
>I have some other questions about lowering. I was looking at two kits, a
>Belltech kit, springs and Nitto shocks, but it's a 2" and 4" drop. That
>seem a bit too much in the rear of a truck that seems to sit fairly
>level right now. The other choice was Hotchkis with a 2" and 3". This
>seemed a little more reasonable. But there were some postings about how
>harsh the ride got. How harsh is harsh? Bad enough to require a kidney
>belt? Can anyone compare it to a late model sports sedan? I've spent
>time in two late model Mazda 626s recently and their fairly firm and you
>can definitely feel the road. That's fine as far as I'm concerned.
>
>Is there anything else I should be aware of? How much do you have to pay
>attention to driveway ramps etc to keep from damaging frame or body
>work? Are 'properly' suspended vehicles going to blast past when I have
>to go over the railroad tracks :-(? Are gravel roads out of the picture
>with their washboard and potholes?
>
>Can a reasonably competent shade=tree mechanic do the work without a
>hoist? Floor jack, hand tools etc.?
>
>So many questions, so little time.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Rob S
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Thu Jul 01 2004 - 00:15:16 EDT