Gotcha, just like the old chebbies...I have an old brake adjusting tool.
Thanks for the help.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bill Day
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 5:50 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: Re: RE: Re: brakes
I have not found a automatic adjust to work on any style rear drums. Put
the rear in the air on jackstands. pull the plug from inside the bottom of
the rear backing plate one ecah side. Witha flat screwdriver(flashlight
optional) adjust the start in downward motion on both sides. As long as
whoever put the brakes in last that should be the outward movement you need
to adjsut them properly.
To check them just spin the wheel. There should a slight drag on it. You
shouldnt have to strain to turn them
HTH,
Bill Day
billday@comwares.net
A rich man isn't always wealthy, he just has all the love he wants and can
give..
AIM - BadManD73 (Catch me if you can!)
'95 Ext Cab 3.9L Mag 4x4 Flame Red 3.55 LSD turning 30x9.50x15's
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Barnes" <barnesrv@comcast.net>
To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 9:01 AM
Subject: DML: RE: Re: brakes
>
> Bill,
> I replaced the rear brakes and rotated drums a few thousand miles ago, but
I
> can see how not having the rear brakes properly adjusted could cause the
> front brakes to "pump up" without the rear brakes offering enough
resistance
> to make the calipers back off. I will check that first. Do you manually
> adjust the rear brakes or use the method of "backup and brake" to do an
> automatic adjustment of the rear brakes? I was going to get a master
> cylinder today, but I am glad to hear the proportioning valve should not
> fail, there is little to it to fail anyway.
> When I did replace my rear brakes, I found that the original shoes in
there
> had practically no wear anyway.
> I appreciate the advice.
>
> Rascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bill Day
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 9:02 AM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: Re: brakes
>
>
> Rick, you may wanna check the rear brakes for proper adjsutment as well.
I
> had this same problem on my '95 and don't relly know what cured it. I too
> replaced the front lines, the calipers etc. I also replaced the rear
wheel
> cylinders and the shoes and all the internal hardware about 2 years ago.
I
> also went the route of the proprtioning valve, supposedly it doesnt go
bad.
> If you go looking for one, it's a dealer only item... So off to the
junkyard
> I headed. Found out that the part number ona 98 is the same as on a 95,
so
> I swapped it in($25 from junkyard off a wrecked 98 with 25k on it) versus
> $80 and a long backorder wait at stealership.
>
> So before you go that route do a good rotor/drum turn if possible install
> and adjust rear shooes good and do a complete brake fluid bleed.
>
> HTH,
>
> Bill Day
> billday@comwares.net
>
> A rich man isn't always wealthy, he just has all the love he wants and can
> give..
>
> AIM - BadManD73 (Catch me if you can!)
> '95 Ext Cab 3.9L Mag 4x4 Flame Red 3.55 LSD turning 30x9.50x15's
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Barnes" <barnesrv@comcast.net>
> To: <dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2004 5:44 PM
> Subject: DML: brakes
>
>
> >
> >
> > I have been having a minor problem with my brakes.
> >
> > Mine is a 98 2wd CC 5.2 . Not too long ago, I replaced my pads with
some
> > pretty good Performance Friction pads from AZ. I was not so happy with
> the
> > condition of the calipers and thought I would rebuild them or just swap
> them
> > out with some reman units. Well, as luck would have it, on one of my
road
> > trips heading at about 80 mph down I-24, I noticed that I had some front
> end
> > hop and as I touched the brake to slow down, there was practically no
play
> > in the pedal, a sign that they were locking up on their own. I pulled
off
> > the interstate and parked it and found the right front was really hot.
I
> > suspected a sticking caliper or brake line. After I let it cool down
for
> > about half an hour, my pedal was back to normal so I drove on back to
> > Atlanta nice and easy and had no further problems. I replaced both
front
> > brake lines as I suspected the rubber part was failing inside and put
> reman
> > calipers and another set of pads on. Brakes felt as good as ever...till
> > today. I am making a little run to the Home Depot and just easing back
> > through some local stop and go traffic, just touching the brake every
now
> > and then to slow down and the brakes began to hang again. Now, what I
> have
> > noticed is that if I am fully braking, no problems, but as I use the
> brakes
> > lightly, they are not retracting, but instead, slowly pumping up to
full.
> If
> > I stop and depress the pedal all the way, it will make the brakes back
> > off...so, the only thing left, (I hope), is the master cylinder. The
only
> > other thing I can think of is a failing brake proportioner, is this
> likely
> > in anyone's opinion? A master cylinder looks pretty easy so I will get
> one
> > tomorrow, but I DO have antilock brakes, but have had no issues with any
> > codes popping up. Opinions anyone? Thanks in advance.
> >
> >
> > Rascal
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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