Re: Rear brake drum problem (cable guide)

From: david.clement@verizon.net
Date: Fri Oct 15 2004 - 08:22:30 EDT


One of the shoe springs fits through the hole in the plate and shoe and
connects to the anchor pin, it's the spring that keeps the guide from falling
out. This method of attachement is pretty standard for Mopar, GM and Ford drum
brake systems.

Sometimes it seems like you need three hands but this is how I do it. Hook the
cable to the anchor pin and rout it over the shoe out of the way. Take the end
of the shoe spring and hook it througth the guide plate and hook both into the
shoe. Use your brake pliers to lever the spring onto the anchor pin. You can
now use a flat blade screw driver to seat the guide plate and position it. Now
wrap your cable around the plate and continue with the assembly.

Dave Clement
99 SLT+ CC 4x4

In article <ckn8hs$390$1@bent.twistedbits.net>, jon@dakota-truck.net writes:
>
> I'm having a bit of trouble changing brake shoes on the rear
> of my '92 Ram 4x4. This is the first time I've done the brakes
> on this vehicle, so I'm not exactly sure what all the parts
> are supposed to look like, etc. :-) Anyway, the problem I
> am having is that I can't get the cable guide to stay in
> place on the secondary brake shoe. (There is a cable that
> runs from the anchor pin at the top, around the cable guide
> in the secondary shoe, then it attaches via a spring to
> the adjuster lever at the bottom.)
>
> Either my cable guide is broken (doesn't look like it) or
> this is one of the most brain-dead engineering decisions I've
> come across in a while (more likely). ;-) Basically the
> problem is that the cable guide is a stamped sheet metal piece
> which has a tiny, tiny extrusion at the back which is supposed
> to go into a hole on the brake shoe, and it would appear that
> the tension on the cable is actually what holds it in place.
> Unfortunately, in my case, any tension on the cable at all and
> it just slips right out of there. Sorry for the text-only
> description, I was going to take some pics but I can't seem
> to locate my digital camera at the moment. ;-) Plus I figure
> anyone with enough brake experience to be able to answer the
> question in the first place will probably know what I am talking
> about anyway. :-)
>
> I notice Autozone has an "all in one brake drum kit" for
> this application, so I will probably go and see what that is
> all about. I am guessing it has new retaining pins and springs
> (I probably should replace those anyway), maybe it has new
> (better) cable guides also? I notice a cable guide is listed
> on autozone.com, but it is also listed as not available either
> in stores or via the web.
>
> If I can't find a less brain-dead cable guide, I think
> what I will do is to just use a bolt and a lock nut to hold
> the cable guide in place. (I thought of welding it on there,
> but if I use a bolt the guide is re-useable after these pads
> wear out.) I think there is enough clearance for a bolt.
>
> Anyway, if anyone has any experience with this sort of thing
> and has any tips or info that might be useful, they would be
> greatly appreciated. :-) Thanks!
>
>
> --
> -Jon-
>
> .-- Jon Steiger ---- jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com --.
> | 1970 Barracuda - 1990 Dakota 'vert - 1992 Ram 4x4 - 1996 Dakota |
> | 1996 Intruder 1400 - 1996 Kolb FireFly - 2001 Ram QC 3500 CTD |
> `------------------------------------ http://www.jonsteiger.com --'



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