They don't adjust themselves. You have to go in thru the back and move the
adjuster with a 90 degree brake tool or a screwdriver. The "expand"
direction that you turn the adjuster will move easily. If you get the
brakes too tight, the "contract" direction is much harder to turn, so just
do a couple of "clicks" at a time. I set my rear brakes to just barely
begin to drag as I turn the wheel. Often, as you are adjusting, it may be
helpful to press the brake pedal to "center" the shoes, or get them just to
drag slightly and once you use them, they will "center" themselves.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Hop *
Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 8:57 AM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: DML: Rear brake drum problem (cable guide)
The other end of the anti rattle spring bar should hold it in place. The
sloted end of the bar towards the rear of the truck should slip over that
half round piece once it's in that small hole in the shoe.
I just did the brakes on my dak last weekend. Only bummer is trying to
figure out if i got the drums adjusted right. I didn't want to turn the
adjustment star down too tight. It would have been a pain in the but to get
the drum back off if i did. How long does it take for the shoes to self
adjust?
--Hop
'97 CC 318 4x4
>From: Terrible Tom <SilverEightynine@aol.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
>Subject: Re: DML: Rear brake drum problem (cable guide)
>Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2004 23:32:45 -0500
>
>
>jon@dakota-truck.net wrote:
>> I'm having a bit of trouble changing brake shoes on the rear
>>of my '92 Ram 4x4. This is the first time I've done the brakes
>>on this vehicle, so I'm not exactly sure what all the parts are supposed
>>to look like, etc. :-) Anyway, the problem I am having is that I can't
>>get the cable guide to stay in place on the secondary brake shoe. (There
>>is a cable that runs from the anchor pin at the top, around the cable
>>guide
>>in the secondary shoe, then it attaches via a spring to the adjuster lever
>>at the bottom.)
>>
>> Either my cable guide is broken (doesn't look like it) or this is one
>>of the most brain-dead engineering decisions I've
>>come across in a while (more likely). ;-) Basically the problem is that
>>the cable guide is a stamped sheet metal piece
>>which has a tiny, tiny extrusion at the back which is supposed
>>to go into a hole on the brake shoe, and it would appear that
>>the tension on the cable is actually what holds it in place.
>>Unfortunately, in my case, any tension on the cable at all and
>>it just slips right out of there. Sorry for the text-only description, I
>>was going to take some pics but I can't seem
>>to locate my digital camera at the moment. ;-) Plus I figure
>>anyone with enough brake experience to be able to answer the question in
>>the first place will probably know what I am talking about anyway. :-)
>>
>> I notice Autozone has an "all in one brake drum kit" for this
>>application, so I will probably go and see what that is
>>all about. I am guessing it has new retaining pins and springs
>>(I probably should replace those anyway), maybe it has new (better) cable
>>guides also? I notice a cable guide is listed on autozone.com, but it is
>>also listed as not available either
>>in stores or via the web.
>>
>> If I can't find a less brain-dead cable guide, I think
>>what I will do is to just use a bolt and a lock nut to hold
>>the cable guide in place. (I thought of welding it on there,
>>but if I use a bolt the guide is re-useable after these pads
>>wear out.) I think there is enough clearance for a bolt.
>>
>> Anyway, if anyone has any experience with this sort of thing
>>and has any tips or info that might be useful, they would be greatly
>>appreciated. :-) Thanks!
>
>Hi Jon! - I looked in my Haynes manual for my Ram, but it only goes back to
>1994 - so I can't see a diagram of your specific drum set up - I think they
>changed it between generations. If what you are talking about is what I
>think it is - does it look anything like a half circle shaped guide - with
>a groove in the curved end? If I am thinking of the same cable - this is
>the self adjuster level spring and cable. An eyelet up top that secures
>the top end?
>
>I had the same problem doing the shoes on Christine. What can happen is
>that cable can stretch and the spring can get weak over time and it doesn't
>want to stay in place with that guide. It should be tight. If it is the
>self adjuster cable - that is not included with AutoZone's all in one drum
>kit (eyeroll) You will have to get the self adjuster kit - which has the
>adjuster screw, spring and cable. (individually sold per side)
>
>I don't quite remember how I got the thing back together finally. But I
>had the problem where every time I went to install the adjuster cable -
>that guide would fall off.
>
>I would run out and take a pic of it for you right now - but I jsut
>remembered the rear axle is no longer off the ground. I had to steal the
>rear jack stands when I did front pads and rotors. What I did was snap a
>pic of the FSM page for the 1989 Dak. Should be similar to yours.
>
>http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/stuff/drums/
>
>Hope this has helped some!
>
>--
>-----------------------------------------------------------------
>Attention Infidels: I am your official DBDoMPfIWUMOT!
>Terrible Tom -- AIM & Yahoo Name: SilverEightynine
>http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/
>
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Nov 01 2004 - 10:47:43 EST