I agree on the bad assembly, interestingly my 89 had 256,000 miles on it when I
sold it and never had a lick of a problem with door locks or window motors.
I am hopping someone will know for sure if there is any kind of feed back to
the body controller that lets it know if the door is actually locked or not.
Based on what happened I would say no.
Dave Clement
In article <09228fe02bffc77564b35b33bf033f08@y2kota.us>, y2kota@y2kota.us (Don)
writes:
>
>
> Sounds like the unit in the door its self is bad. Common to fail in the
> Daks. I had two oem ones to go in my 2000
>
> --
> *------------------------------Y2KOTA------------------------------*
> Don Mallett
> Y2K QC 4.7L Auto SLT+ 4x2
> http://www.y2kota.us
> *-----I'm not late! It's that the rest of the world is early!!-----*.
>
>
> On Feb 24, 2005, at 4:02 PM, david.clement@verizon.net wrote:
>
> >
> > Little background before the question; About 3 weeks ago when we had a
> > real
> > cold snap, a couple of weeks of temps going below zero at night and
> > only
> > getting into the upper single digits during the day, the electric lock
> > solenoid
> > on the drivers door of my 99 Dakota started to make a lot of racket
> > when
> > locked. Sounded like the coil that pulls the lock plunger had come
> > loose and
> > was vibrating in the latch (only does it when locking). The electric
> > lock
> > mechanism still works and I removed the door panel to see there was
> > any thing
> > obvious there wasn't but lubed up everything any way which didn't
> > help. Also,
> > along with this condition is a intermittent related occurrence. When
> > you grab
> > the door handle to open the door and the door is locked it normally
> > unlocks the
> > door, occasionally the button comes up but not all the way to the
> > unlock
> > position and once the handle is released the door locks again.
> >
> > Now to my question if the key is in the ignition and no one is sitting
> > on the
> > seat should the body controller allow the doors to be locked under any
> > circumstances?
> >
> > On my truck both the key-fob remote and the door switch are
> > inoperative if the
> > key is in the ignition and no one is in the seat but if the button is
> > pushed
> > down manually the door will lock.
> >
> > My 97 Avenger if you tried to lock the door manually, with the
> > electric lock
> > button or with the remote and the key was in the ignition and no one
> > was
> > sitting in the drivers seat the door would immediately unlock. The
> > wifes PT is
> > the same way.
> >
> > This intermittent occurrence of the button going back into the lock
> > position
> > after opening the door resulted in me being locked out of my truck
> > with the
> > engine running and my cell phone in the holder on the dash at the side
> > of the
> > highway yesterday. :( Luckily I was able to grab a piece of heavy
> > wire from
> > the comm house I was checking on and fish it down between the window
> > and the
> > glass and get the door unlocked.
> >
> > I know I need to get a new latch mechanism but I want to understand
> > how the
> > system actually works and make sure there is not something else that
> > needs
> > repair.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Dave Clement
> > 99 SLT+ CC 4x4
> >
> >
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Tue Mar 01 2005 - 10:04:32 EST