Doesn't really sound like the permanent fix I was looking for, but probably
would work better than duct tape over any of the vents :) I guess I could
go with a double barb and make a restrictor plate (small 1/8" hole in the
center) to severly restrict flow. That might help prevent any of the
corosion problems.
Anyone know if the AC will still work with the fix, or will the AC still not
work well as the door isn't trying to put the cool AC'd air out of the
vents? I guess for the cost setback at least I wouldn't have heat, so I'm
tempted to do that as a temporary fix...
I just don't think there is such a thing as a temporary fix that works. I
temporarly wired up keyless entry within the first week after I got it (ie
under 100 miles on it :) I still have yet to get around to making all the
wires shorter and nice and pretty...
David 94 CC Sport 4x4, 318, 5spd, Lifted with 33" BFG MT's
----- Original Message -----
From: <victor.williams@byers.com>
To: <dml@dakota-truck.net>
Cc: <DML@HenryWeb.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 12:30 AM
Subject: re:DML: Too Hot in the Dak
> Go by Home Depot or plumbing supply or similar store and get a 3/4" brass
> ball valve and 2 - 5/8" barbed fittings with threaded ends that will screw
> into the valve. Put it all together, splice this into the heater hose
> coming from the water pump and turn off hot water to the heater core.
> This will stop hot air from coming out of the heater.
> I looked for heater valves in the junk yard once but didn't find anything
I
> liked.
>
> Victor Williams
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jul 01 2005 - 09:48:06 EDT