Shelby Dakota #899
- Red
- Approximately 125k miles.
- Recent Mopar Reman Transmission
- Near perfect interior.
- New tires.
- All Shelby-specific items are in place and in good shape, except exterior
decals.
- THIS TRUCK COMES WITH A BRAND NEW FULL DECAL SET, INCLUDING WINDSHIELD
BANNER.
Condition:
Interior: Near Perfect. Only issue is dash is cracked (try finding one that's
not), small tear about the size of your pinky fingernail on the driver's side
right where the seat back pivots and rotates forward on the side of the
seat.This is not even seen by most unless you look for it.It can be fixed
without having to do the whole seat.Steering wheel is intact (currently out of
truck), with no holes or tearing, but the leather is in need of being
replaced.All shelby insignia inside the truck is perfect, including door panel
inserts, seat fabric, cup-holder, horn button, dash plaque, and sill covers.I
removed the carpet, seat, side molding yesterday. The truck has sat for over a
year, and I just saw that it has leaked water into the driver's floor. I
removed the carpet, removed all of the water, dried, etc. There is NO RUST
ANYWHERE. When I removed the carpet, I also removed the near-perfect Broadcast
sheet, which was taped to the floor where the center hump meets the seat area
of the floor.The only thing the interior needs to be show-ready is a new
dashpad, and to have the steering wheel re-done. The seat tear could be fixed
only if you were Mr. Anal Retentive.
Exterior: The truck has typical parking lot/shopping cart dings, but has never
had any bodywork done to it, and has NEVER had any rust or rust repair done to
it. There is one sopt the size of a pea under the pass. side door seal and the
rocker, where one spot weld is, that I would fix, as this has had water sit in
it and has started to oxidize. it has *NOT* rusted through. Also, where the
front chin spoiler meets the fender on one side, the paint has flaked off, so
it has oxidized there.This is surface rust, and not someone from the
Northeast's definition of surface rust. It's *on the surface*. Other than
dings, the only other dents are a dent the size of a fist directly above the
pass. side front tire, where the fender curves over to meet the hood.This was
caused by a small pine tree, aproximately 4" in diameter that was right next to
the truck leaning against the fender during our latest ice storm this past
winter.There is a small dent in the A-Pillar on the pass. side, about the side
of a silver dollar, that was there when I bought the truck a few years
back.Both of these are *easily* fixed.Shelby-specific chin spoiler is in very
good shape.I hit a dog on the way to work about a year ago, and in doing so the
spiler flexed and right near the fog lamp opening on the driver's side it has a
hairline crack. You can't even see it or notice it unless you look very hard
for it.The rear bumper is in good shape with Shelby step pads.I have replaced
one wheel with one I bought off of eBay, as I ran off the road late one night
and bent one.The one I bought off of eBay is now mounted on the truck and is in
good shape.The bent one goes with the truck, as it's possible to fix it if you
like.All glass and door seals are in good shape. All glass is in good shape and
is not cracked.Previous owner had someone paint the hood decal on, and the hood
as well.The decal part looks good, but the shade of red they used for the rest
of the hood is not correct, and the clear is peeling off of the hood.As stated
the decls are toast, and I would give the whole truck a good repaint, including
removing the bed and Shelby light bar when doing so.Ah, I almost forgot, the
grille is faded, as are the mirrors, and the shelby plate on the grille is
broken in two.It can be glued back together and looks fine, but it will
eventually come apart.I believe it had been glued when I bought it.s stated,
this truck comes with a FULL set of decals, including two windshield banners
(for either red or white truck), decals for airbox underhood, etc.Shelby light
bar is in good shape.
Mechanical: The truck has sat for over a year, but I stuck a battery in it two
days agi and it started on the first turn of the key (thank God for Fuel
Injection). It idles very smooth, and you almost can't even hear it since it
has electric fans. The truck does need to have the valve cover gaskets replaced
as the one on the pass. side seeps onto the exhaust manifold, which causes
smoke, but not too much. Just enough to make you think 'WTF...?!'.As mentiond
earlier, the A-500 was replaced around 114K with a Reman unit frmo Mopar. at
the same time we replaced all of the tranny cooling lines because the reman
unit needed bigger fittings (and therefor bigger lines), and also a new tranny
cooler.The truck needs brake work (they worked fine when parked, but when I
moved it two days ago the pedal went all the way down, so either a master
cylinder and/or wheel cylinders), rearend work, and a radiator.The tires have
very very little use on them, but they're cheap, and the wrong size (one or two
sizes taller).
Needs:
- Brakes - As mentioned, the brakes worked fine when i parked it, but when I
moved it the other day, they went all the way to the floor before it would
stop.I would presume that it needs a master cylinder and/or wheel cylinders,
both of which are an easy fix.
- Radiator - Ever since I have had the truck it has had this problem.When you
drive it down the interstate, especially on hot days for extended drives, when
you stop the truck, such as getting off the interstate, it starts wanting to
overheat. It has never done so to the point of stranding me, but it needs to be
fixed.I assume there is a flow problem with the radiator, as I have replaced
the water pump, and both fans are working as normal.I drove the truck like this
for two years, including several trips to labama, and a few to Tennessee and
Virgina, one towing a trailer, and again, I was never stranded.
- Rearend - This one hs driven me nuts. When I first got it, it would make this
groaning sound frmo the rear at low speeds when going in anything other than a
straight line. I removed the cover multiple times and tried different fluid
combinations (since it's a Sure Grip unit), but it never went away. I have
narrowed it down to the center unit clutches not wanting to disengage, so I
would assume it needs to be rebuilt. Keep in mind that I drove the truck like
this for over two years, and was never stranded, I just hated hearing it, and I
think it may have contributed to the tranny going bad as well.
- AC - The AC worked up until a year before i stopped driving it. The system
doesn't have any leaks, and has been converted to 134, it just never engages
the compressor. I would assume this is a relay, etc, but have not looked at it.
Where am I? I am located in Alvaton, GA (find it on MapQuest). I am
approximately a 45 minutes drive SW of the Atlanta airport.
Can the truck be driven home? No, not unless the brakes are fixed at minimum.
If you're driving it more than two hours drive, or if it's super hot when you
do, I would also replace the radiator before doing so.The truck can be driven
to be loaded onto a car-hauler, transport, dolly, etc., but it is not safe to
drive as-is due to the brakes.
Extras: - I have a FSM for 1989 Dodge Truck, as well as a reprinted Shelby
addendum, a bunch of posters, flyers and info, and the afore-mentioned decal
set.There is also the extra bent wheel, which would make a nice spare if fixed.
The price is FIRM at $1500,and non-negotiable, so don't try and get me to come
off of it.The decal set alone would go for between $500 and $1000, and they
don't usually come with the windshield banner. I could part this truck out, and
just selling the Shelby specific items probably get over $1500, but I would
rather this truck go to an enthusiast.I need money quicly as I found a project
for my girlfriend, blah blah blah. If I don't sell in the next few days, I will
start fixing things, and getting it all nice and squared away (which won't take
much at all), and then the price will be doubled if not more at minimum.
This truck was purchased new in Chatanooga, TN, and comes with a clear GA
title.
I can be reached by direct e-mail at korn_nuts69@hotmail.com . Please do not
respond to the list, as I am unable to check or keep up with it. You can also
feel free to call me at home at XXX-XXX-XXXX (as late as you like), or at work
at 1-XXX-XXX-XXXX, extension XXXX M-F 8AM to 5PM Eastern Time. If you call at
work, it's best to call in the morning as my phone gets lpenty busy in the
afternoon.
I will gladly take any pics you like and send them to you, just be very
specific on what you want it of. Also tell me if you want a super-huge version
so you can see details, or not so big so you can't download it on dial-up.
Thanks!
- Jack Hilton
korn_nuts69@hotmail.com
XXX-XXX-XXXX (home)
XXX-XXX-XXXX or 1-XXX-XXX-XXXX, Ext XXXX (office)
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sat Jan 05 2008 - 19:13:05 EST