On Mon, 5 Jun 2006, Neil W. Bellenger wrote:
> Is this a 4-pin (3 plus ground) flat trailer connector or 7 pin round??
4-pin flat.
> Does the kit require unplugging an existing truck harness connector at
> or near the rear of the truck and then inserting the new connector as a
> "tee" in the harness? I.e., half of original harness into kit connector,
> then other side of kit connector into other half of original harness?
Exactly.
> If this is the case, the kit isn't wired correctly for your truck and
> the back-up light voltage is not being passed through the kit connector
> to the back-up lights.
Sounds logical.
> If the back-up light fuse is blown and continues to blow when replaced
> and the new trailer receptacle has no back-up light function, then the
> kit harness is wired incorrectly and shorting your back-up light
> circuit.
Haven't checked the fuse yet (truck is at home, I'm at work)... I'm
curious to see what I find.
> The pinout on the kit may OK for everything but Dakotas. An electrical
> system that doesn't match any other vehicle?? That would be the very
> first time this has happened since Chrysler designed the truck. OOPS
> SORRY, that slipped out. Mustn't rant.
;-)
> Get a voltmeter or multimeter at Radio Shack of somewhere similar. Start
> checking voltage at the various points along the existing harness and
> the kit.
I have a couple of multimeters... just don't feel like doing the checking.
;-) I was hoping for a "just cut the blue wire" kind of answer. Actually,
I was hoping my brother would sort the issue out with his truck and pass
the solution on to me, but I suspect he's using the same plan of attack.
> The kit maybe designed correctly but assembled wrong or poorly since the
> likelihood of it being a low bid, pacific rim piece of "equipment" is,
> to say the least, very HIGH.
Incorrect assembly is possible, but I'm gonna guess that since it's
happening to so many people that it's more likely a design issue -
possibly related to your almost rant above.
thanks,
Craig
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