If I use the aluminum tubing, I suppose I can compression couple the new
line to the old line near flared ends (if they're in good shape). Then I
wouldn't have to worry about a new flare tool and doing 10 flares before
getting it right :).
I can see the quick connects near the fuel rails. Are they the same near
the tank also?
Thanks,
Top Poster James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of
jon@dakota-truck.net
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2006 1:36 PM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: Re: DML: Fuel Problem
"Jamie Calder" <jcalder3@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
: The metal lines are just as rusted and pitted as my front brake lines that
: blew out on me. There are 2 lines, one smaller then the other. I assume
: the smaller one is the return line?
Hmmm, I'm not sure on that one, maybe someone else can chime in.
Sometimes the return line will be bigger because the pump is driving the
fuel at high pressure whereas when it hits the regulator, the fuel which is
returning to the tank is under a relatively low pressure and
so a larger fuel line is used to help the flow. That might not be
the case on the Dakota, I just wanted to throw that in there to let you know
that the size might not necessarily determine which is which.
Tracing the lines might allow you to tell which is which.
: Is there any reason why I cannot replace the metal lines with high
pressure
: rubber fuel lines rated for fuel injection with fuel injection style hose
: clamps?
Replacing the hard lines with soft lines is frowned upon, although
unfortunately I am not sure why. Maybe it is due to the risk of the
rubber lines rubbing against parts of the frame and wearing through?
I'm not sure. It will definitely work, but you might want to hold off
on that for the time being, maybe someone can post who knows the reason
for this.
I actually just did this with my Willys CJ2A. I removed the steel
hard line and just used rubber line for the run between the tank and
the fuel pump. I didn't feel too bad doing this since the length of
the run was only about 5 feet, and almost all of that is inside a frame
rail. I used zip ties with that split loom tubing and pieces of rubber
to protect the line where it entered and left the frame, and anywhere that
it looked like there was any possibility of rubbing against an edge.
Another reason against doing this though, at least with the fuel
injection rated line, is that the stuff is really, really expensive!
At least it was the last time I bought some about 5 years ago. I
needed a short section for the fuel filter when I was doing an EFI
conversion on my Barracuda, and the stuff was about $5 per foot! The
rest of the soft hoses in the car are braided stainless with AN fittings,
and the 1000psi braided stainless was actually cheaper than the 50psi fuel
injection hose!
: If I were to replace them with metal lines, the ends need to be formed to
: accept the quick connects, right. Or cut the ends off and compression
: couple them to the new lines? And a lot of bending involved again. Seems
as
: though rubber would be much easier, and wont rust out again.
Another option is aluminum; Summit sells aluminum fuel lines; these are
usually used in conjunction with AN fittings and braided stainless. They
are easier to bend than steel and won't rust (although there is the
possibility
of corrosion). One catch with the aluminum line though is that you will
need
a 37 degree flare tool, as opposed to the 45 degree tool used with brake
lines
and the like.
--
-Jon-
.- Jon Steiger -- jon@dakota-truck.net or jon@jonsteiger.com -.
| '96 Kolb Firefly, '96 Suzuki Intruder, Miscellaneous Mopars |
`-------------------------------- http://www.jonsteiger.com --'
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