Funny...i've adjusted valves both his way (manufacturer) and the way I was
taught (open/closed)...never had a valve stuck open on me at all. Just make
sure you don't turn more than 3/4 turn - I normally run them at 1/2 turn.
Take all the spark plugs OUT of the engine - makes it easier to turn by hand
- set the rockers down by hand (somewhat snug) - crank the engine until you
see oil coming out of all the rocker oiling holes (that means that they're
all pumped up). Now adjust away.
You're worrying too much, don't bother with the engine running (gets really
messy), 0+1/2 is fine, way too many questions, and yes...stop. ;)
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: Jamie Calder [mailto:jcalder3@cfl.rr.com]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:00 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: Roller Rocker Adjustment
Before I set out to install the roller rockers I've read a few instruction
sheets and articles describing the procedure. Basically...exhaust rod
starts up, zero lash the intake plus 1/2 to 3/4 turn more. Exhaust
basically the same. 1 Cylinder at a time. Then I came across this
Goggling, http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp and he
states, "how many of you read or were taught that with a hydraulic lifter
cam you adjust it down to where there is pushrod resistance (zero lash) and
then turn it down 1/2 to 3/4 turn? Well, if you did this, you more than
likely have the valves not closing all the way!"
Should I worry about all this stuff?
What about knowing if the lifters have bleed out or are pumped up?
How about using the engine running method?
Am I worrying to much?
Is the zero lash + 1/2 turn method enough?
Anything special about our Magnums I should know?
Too many questions?
Stop now?
Thanks,
James
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