In a similar vein, my father and I were attempting to replace the
automatic tensioner on my mother's 1995 Dodge Grand Caravan with the
3.3L.
Her van spit the serpentine belt (about 120K miles) a few weeks back and
it appeared the tensioner pulley was leaning. I picked up a new DAYCO
assembly and went about trying to remove the old one. My father used a
bit too much persuasion and the bolt sheared off.
The darn bolt looks to be embedded in the block and there isn't much
protruding out. I wonder if the freezing trick would help or not in my
application. I do have a right-angle drill but it is barely usable.
Plus the amount of space between the engine bay and the block is only
3-4 inches.
Anyone have any ideas?
-Marc-
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bernd D.
Ratsch
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 3:20 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: ARRRRRRRRGHH!
Remove the distributor and freeze the bolt area with a can of compressed
air
(Radio Shack or any computer shop will carry this - even WalMart). Just
flip the bottle upside down and spray...the propellant will "freeze" the
area, shrinking the metal enough (hopefully) to loosen the screw. I've
used
tweezers to remove broken distributor screws, throttle body screws (Jeep
4.0L's are notorious for breaking at the TPS bolts), and other small
sheared
bolts.
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: DAKSY [mailto:rsmith13@nycap.rr.com]
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2007 1:17 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: ARRRRRRRRGHH!
Hey, DML!
Looks like Spring finally got to Upstate NY! So...I decided to spend
come
quality time with the DAKSY...
Changed the oil & filter & while I was at NAPA I got a NAPA brass cap &
rotor. Grabbed some new Autolite 3924s at Wally World last week so I
got
the tools out and F*#K!!!!!!
I managed to shear off the freekin passenger side screw that holds the
distributor cap on !!!!
Don't ask how...
Snapped it so far down that there's absolutely NO FREEKIN way to remove
it
with vise grips...
WTF do I do NOW?!!??!
I don't think I can get a drill bit down in there unless I remove the
TB...
What ever made engineers change their minds to switch from the old style
caps that had spring clips on both sides?
They were a piece of cake to change...
I can check the thread diameter & pitch to re-tap the threads - IF I CAN
GET
THE REMAINING PIECE OUT!
Looks like the surface that "nests" the cap is Bakelite, so I'll
probably
end up porkin that too...
Short of towing it to the local indy, any ideas from the DAKsperts?!??!
HELP!
Bob (DAKSY) Smith
DAKSY2K on AIM
2K SY Dakota Sport +
V-6 4 x 4 5 speed
2K05 HD 883C YP
http://home.nycap.rr.com/daksy/
Averill Park, NY
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