Thanks for the info.
Looks like I am just going to stick with my
LT265/70R17 and "call it a day".
I will just spend some cash on soe hi-po goodies now,
time to go order the throttle body...........
THANKS!
Kyle
--- Michael Maskalans <dml@tepidcola.com> wrote:
>
>
> On May 14, 2007, at 22:00, Terrible Tom wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Kyle Kozubal wrote:
> >
> >> I am looking at getting a small lift on my
> Dakota,
> >> possibly.
> >> A body lift is not an option, since I do not want
> to
> >> re-route my exhaust (which runs through the body
> panel
> >> on the bed).
> >
> > Bummer you can't do body lift. They are the best
> option for
> > getting a little more tire clearence. They don't
> screw up steering
> > and driveline angles, doesn't raise the center of
> gravity as much
> > as a suspension lift, and they are affordable and
> reaitivly easy to
> > install.
>
> bah, they're a cop-out. Frame rub at full lock is
> the imiting factor
> in tire size anyway. With a 3" body lift you may be
> able to go to a
> rim with less backspacing and get a 35 on with some
> trimmi. that's
> only 1.5" more clearance than with the 32" you could
> fit before.
>
> Put a 3" susponsion lift on and you get the 3" of
> the lift plus the
> 1.5" of going to a 35" tire.
>
> crank your torsion bars and full stuff is still the
> same place it was
> before, and you get less downtravel, but maybe you
> could get a 33" on?
>
> These sizes are all for a Gen III, adjust
> accordingly for the
> "lesser" years ;-)
>
> Depends on the sort of clearance that you care about
> too. frame to
> ground in the middle of the truck? keeping your
> doors and rocker
> panels out of rocks or above water? or just going
> through mud and ruts?
>
> Ignoring tires, either lift leaves your axles in
> pretty much the some
> place with respect to the pavement. The suspension
> lift lets you
> potentially increase suspension travel and gets the
> frame up to
> improve breakover. cranking the torsion bars nets
> the most benefit
> in getting the front end out of the way of dragging
> in ruts though.
>
> IFS isn't for anything serious anyway, so just go
> with what makes you
> happy and fits your budget.
>
> >
> >> Are the torsion bar keys a good option for
> lifting the
> >> front end 2"? Do these work?
> >
> > All they are is a stock-style key, thats got the
> hex clocked at a
> > different position, to allow the bars to be
> cranked more.
> >
> > I'm not sure what, but there is a point where the
> factory alignment
> > specs cannot be set properly if the factory
> suspension is lifted
> > without compensation of the control arms and CV
> shaft angles.. If
> > you crank them up too much, you may not be able to
> set alignment
> > well enough to keep tire wear from being a
> problem. One inch crank
> > seems to be the general consensus on the DML that
> you can raise the
> > bars that much and not cause adverse effects on
> the ball joints,
> > tierods, etc.
>
> which, by the way, you can do without going to
> aftermarket keys in
> most cases.
>
> > I don't know that I would be comfortable with
> trying to jack the
> > torsion bars up 2 or 3 inches as the auction
> states you can. I'm
> > sure their kit will do what they say - its just
> the alignment and
> > driveline wear that would worry me.
>
> I'd worry about alignment and our already crappy
> balljoints more than
> the CV joints. The inners will see more angle, yes,
> but remember
> that turning thing that the outers are accustomed to
> anyway =)
> >
> > Also if you could actually lift the front end
> above a level front-
> > to-rear stance, you would have to use blocks or
> add-a-leafs in the
> > rear spring packs. I know you dont wanna mess
> with the exhaust...
> > but my recommendation is body lift.
>
> and my suggestion is to just run the biggest tires
> you can fit and
> call it a day, a body lift won't gain you much more
> clearance, really.
>
> someone with a body lift and 35s can chime in now
> and beat me down
> (please). There was a guy in WA or OR or NS or AK
> on
> dodgedakotas.com I think it was back before I did my
> SOS that ran 35s
> with some trimming and a 3" BL. That's what I'd do
> if I were you
> wanted the most bang for the buck.
>
> --
> +-- Mike Maskalans ---------------- Rochester, NY
> ----------+
> | '98 Dakota CC, SAS on 40s '84 RamCharger 4x4,
> plow truck |
> | '02 Jetta TDI 5sp, daily '97 Intrepid, not on
> the road |
> +--------------------
> <http://mike.tepidcola.com/trucks/> --+
>
>
2004 Dakota Quad Cab SLT
4.7L V8, Auto, 4x4, 3.55 Gears
Flowmaster 3" 40 Series Exhaust
Thru-Body Exhaust, K&N FIPK Intake
Jet Chip Stage II Performance Module
Pro Comp 17X8 Series 8089 Wheels
Yoko Geolander AT+II 265/70R17 Tires (siped)
Leer QXL Cap, Rhino Liner, Billet Fuel Door
APC Clear Corners, Class IV Hitch
Vent Visors, Husky Foor Liners
Windows Tinted, Polk Speakers
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 01 2007 - 09:06:10 EDT