On May 14, 2007, at 22:00, Terrible Tom wrote:
>
>
>
> Kyle Kozubal wrote:
>
>> I am looking at getting a small lift on my Dakota,
>> possibly.
>> A body lift is not an option, since I do not want to
>> re-route my exhaust (which runs through the body panel
>> on the bed).
>
> Bummer you can't do body lift. They are the best option for
> getting a little more tire clearence. They don't screw up steering
> and driveline angles, doesn't raise the center of gravity as much
> as a suspension lift, and they are affordable and reaitivly easy to
> install.
bah, they're a cop-out. Frame rub at full lock is the imiting factor
in tire size anyway. With a 3" body lift you may be able to go to a
rim with less backspacing and get a 35 on with some trimmi. that's
only 1.5" more clearance than with the 32" you could fit before.
Put a 3" susponsion lift on and you get the 3" of the lift plus the
1.5" of going to a 35" tire.
crank your torsion bars and full stuff is still the same place it was
before, and you get less downtravel, but maybe you could get a 33" on?
These sizes are all for a Gen III, adjust accordingly for the
"lesser" years ;-)
Depends on the sort of clearance that you care about too. frame to
ground in the middle of the truck? keeping your doors and rocker
panels out of rocks or above water? or just going through mud and ruts?
Ignoring tires, either lift leaves your axles in pretty much the some
place with respect to the pavement. The suspension lift lets you
potentially increase suspension travel and gets the frame up to
improve breakover. cranking the torsion bars nets the most benefit
in getting the front end out of the way of dragging in ruts though.
IFS isn't for anything serious anyway, so just go with what makes you
happy and fits your budget.
>
>> Are the torsion bar keys a good option for lifting the
>> front end 2"? Do these work?
>
> All they are is a stock-style key, thats got the hex clocked at a
> different position, to allow the bars to be cranked more.
>
> I'm not sure what, but there is a point where the factory alignment
> specs cannot be set properly if the factory suspension is lifted
> without compensation of the control arms and CV shaft angles.. If
> you crank them up too much, you may not be able to set alignment
> well enough to keep tire wear from being a problem. One inch crank
> seems to be the general consensus on the DML that you can raise the
> bars that much and not cause adverse effects on the ball joints,
> tierods, etc.
which, by the way, you can do without going to aftermarket keys in
most cases.
> I don't know that I would be comfortable with trying to jack the
> torsion bars up 2 or 3 inches as the auction states you can. I'm
> sure their kit will do what they say - its just the alignment and
> driveline wear that would worry me.
I'd worry about alignment and our already crappy balljoints more than
the CV joints. The inners will see more angle, yes, but remember
that turning thing that the outers are accustomed to anyway =)
>
> Also if you could actually lift the front end above a level front-
> to-rear stance, you would have to use blocks or add-a-leafs in the
> rear spring packs. I know you dont wanna mess with the exhaust...
> but my recommendation is body lift.
and my suggestion is to just run the biggest tires you can fit and
call it a day, a body lift won't gain you much more clearance, really.
someone with a body lift and 35s can chime in now and beat me down
(please). There was a guy in WA or OR or NS or AK on
dodgedakotas.com I think it was back before I did my SOS that ran 35s
with some trimming and a 3" BL. That's what I'd do if I were you
wanted the most bang for the buck.
-- +-- Mike Maskalans ---------------- Rochester, NY ----------+ | '98 Dakota CC, SAS on 40s '84 RamCharger 4x4, plow truck | | '02 Jetta TDI 5sp, daily '97 Intrepid, not on the road | +-------------------- <http://mike.tepidcola.com/trucks/> --+
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