RE: RE: V6 CC owners....question for you.

From: Rick Barnes (rascal@scrtc.com)
Date: Mon Jun 11 2007 - 17:38:08 EDT


Steve, it's very difficult to tell about a u joint just by the old grip and
pull. I had to replace mine and as usual, the originals had no zerk
fittings. Are you u joints greasable? I just tend to lean to the simple
thing first.

Rascal

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Steve Preston
Sent: Monday, June 11, 2007 3:45 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: Re: DML: RE: V6 CC owners....question for you.

No,I thought it probably was that,Rick,but there's no
play on either end of the driveshaft. At least not
that I could tell. But my new Elmscan 5 scanner came
today! :) I haven't had a chance to look at it yet,but
I'm sure once I do a full sweep on all my play
sensors,it'll tell me where the looseness is! :)

Thanks. Steve P.

 Rick Barnes <rascal@scrtc.com> wrote:

>
> Could it be U joints?
>
> Rascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On
> Behalf Of Steve Preston
> Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2007 6:24 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: V6 CC owners....question for you.
>
>
> Hey. Anybody else with a 42RE have a short "oop"
> noise
> right when you shift into reverse? This is really
> bugging me. Sounds like something binding up. It's a
> lot worse when I'm facing downhill and shift to
> reverse. Then it's more of a drawn out noise,like a
> groan,but still lasting no longer than a second.
> I checked for play at the driveshaft,and it seems
> alright. Thought the transmission mount was doing
> it,but it looks like it was designed to allow
> side-to-side movement. I can grab the tailshaft of
> the
> tranny and move it back and forth a little.
>
> I had my wife shift from D to R while I looked
> underneath,and there was no unusual movement. But
> when
> I held the driveshaft as she shifted,I felt two
> distinct movements,like it engages once,then again.
> The driveshaft rotates perhaps an additional
> 1/4-1/2".
> So now I'm thinking pinion damage or something (it's
> a
> 3.55). 37,000 miles. Another thing,it does in fact
> have the characteristic "woooo" noise at certain
> highway speeds. I believe this was an issue dealt
> with
> on the list several years ago?
>
> Sorry for the long post. Is it likely that a bad
> pinion or worn diff is causing both sounds? Thanks!
>
> Steve P.
>
>
> --- Steve Preston <steveophonic@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > I bought some (Powerslot?) cross-drilled rotors
> with
> > ceramic pads as a set off Ebay about a year and a
> > half
> > ago,and they've been great. Paid about $85.00 for
> > everything,plus shipping. But I don't really race
> my
> > truck (4.7 4X4 RC),so maybe they don't tend to
> hold
> > up
> > well with rigorous braking. But I was cleaning my
> > wheels every week with wheel and tire cleaner,the
> > stock rotors were badly rusted,and they squealed
> > bad.
> > Haven't had any of those problems since. Hope this
> > helps.
> >
> > Steve P.
> > --- Barry Oliver <barrysuperhawk@insightbb.com>
> > wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > OK, I have identified a problem and now I would
> > like
> > > some opinions on
> > > what is possibly causing it. I looked at my
> > brakes
> > > yesterday as part of
> > > my exhaust repair [I pulled my pass wheel for
> > > clearance] and my rotors
> > > are totally toast, Rusty, Flaking and grooved.
> > The
> > > odd part is that my
> > > pads look almost new. On the pass side at least
> I
> > > have 7-8mm of pad,
> > > inside and out. I'll post pictures as soon as
> my
> > > camera charges, but I
> > > have never seen this much disparity between
> rotor
> > > wear and pad wear. It
> > > seems to suggest that these pads are way too
> hard
> > > for my rotors and are
> > > eating them. Oh, this combination [Morse
> Ceramic
> > > pads, NAPA top of the
> > > line rotors] has almost 60k miles on it, and I
> was
> > > expecting to have to
> > > do brakes relatively soon anyway.
> > >
> > > By way of a possible solution, I was thinking
> > about
> > > upgrading to
> > > Stainless steel slotted rotors. The Stainless
> for
> > > two reasons, first
> > > because I don't drive my truck every day and my
> > > rotors do rust from
> > > sitting, and second, because I understand that
> SS
> > is
> > > marginally harder
> > > than the regular rotors. I am looking at the
> > > slotted variety because I
> > > guess every Dakota that has ever run drilled
> > rotors
> > > has had cracks..
> > > [although I am still not 100% convinced that
> isn't
> > > really a small
> > > problem that has been blown way out of
> proportion
> > by
> > > a vocal minority on
> > > the Internet..] The popular combo of powerslots
> > and
> > > hawk pads I think
> > > has less appeal to me because of the combo of
> rust
> > > [standard rotor
> > > material] and increased brake dust over the
> > > ceramics.
> > >
> > > Opinions?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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