Well, you just said, "personally"..and so did I. If you look around, you
will see the booster is a common problem on our trucks. The brake line is
not, especially since he said he had no problem pushing the piston back in.
Now that IS assuming, (a dangerous word, I understand), he is pushing the
piston back in the way many people, (not all), do and that is by just
pressing it back in without opening the bleeder, (but that is how I do it).
IF he is doing it this way, the piston would NOT go in very easily IF the
brake line were blocked. I have found this out the hard way too when I
owned a Suburban that developed the breakdown of the rubber brake lines.
The piston absolutely refused to go back in...hence a bad brakeline.
Not meaning to upset you Brian, I am just a grumpy old man and not kind
enough with my words sometimes. Peace to all.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 5:25 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: RE: RE: RE: 2000 Dakota 2WD front brakes
And a number of other Dakota owners have had the brake lines collapse on
them causing the same problems as well. Was just saying the brake lines are
cheaper and he was talking about upgrading anyways, so it's not like he was
going to waste money on them.
brian cropp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Rick Barnes
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 9:01 AM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: RE: RE: 2000 Dakota 2WD front brakes
Personally you would be wasting your money since a number of us have had the
same thing happen.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Brian
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 10:24 AM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: RE: 2000 Dakota 2WD front brakes
Personally, I'd still say replace the lines first because they are cheaper
and easier. If that doesn't fix it, then go for the booster. Would be a
waste of money to replace the booster only to find out is was a collapsed
brake line to the Caliper.
brian cropp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Rick Barnes
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 7:10 AM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: 2000 Dakota 2WD front brakes
Yes, your brake booster is bad. Bob and I had the very same thing happen.
Rascal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Ned Buckmaster
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 4:31 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: 2000 Dakota 2WD front brakes
I have a 2K club cab with 89k miles on it. While it was under warranty,
rotors were replaced twice for warpage. Around 40K, I put on Frozen Rotors
and solved the warp problem. Around 45K, the passenger caliper stuck and
toasted the brake pad, so I replaced the caliper and pads. Lately the brakes
have been feeling mushy, so I ordered some Hawk HPS Performance Brake Pads
for it. When I installed them, the inboard passenger pad was down to the
metal and had started into the rotor - the 3 other pads had 3/8" material
left on them.
The rails the calipers slide on are slightly notched on both sides. The
passenger side is no worse than the driver's side. I've put high-temp
anti-seize on them every time I've replaced pads.
Is there something else that can cause just the passenger-side caliper to
stick? Proportioning valve? Master cylinder?
I also replaced the fluid with Valvoline synthetic, and the brakes feel much
better, even with the bad rotor on it.
Does anyone made a replacement set of brakes for the front? I have found SSB
rear replacements, but nothing for the front....
Ned Buckmaster
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