David Margrave wrote:
> I'm going to be replacing the upper ball joints on my 95 dakota 5.2L 4x4.
>
> One step the FSM seems to omit is the necessity to remove the CV
> shafts to have enough room to work. I assume you have to do that if
> you are going to use the miller C-3564-A ball stud remover tool, just
> to have room to work. Probably not a big deal since they bolt on, and
> so you don't have to empty the diff.
Yeah - pull the CV axle - makes the job much easier
>
> Also the FSM says not to use the tool to force the ball joint out of
> the steering knuckle, rather to tighten it and then whack it with a
> hammer to break it free.
>
> Has anyone done this job with different tools like a generic ball
> joint puller tool or a pickle fork?
I've used the pickle fork, works good - just have to make sure you wedge
it between the stud and the knuckle - I was wacking away at it and not
getting anywhere, till I realized it was not positioned where it needed
to be.
>
> Also, the miller C-3561 2 9/64" socket is called out in the FSM, but
> I've heard others (in the archive) suggest that you can do it with 2
> 1/8", which are more widely available. Will a 2 1/8" actually fit?
Don't remember what size socket - can't use a regular hex. The shape of
the ball joint is such that you have to use the chrysler ball joint
socket to remove it. I bought both sizes from a local MAC tool dealer
(used) - I think it was the smaller of the two.
>
> As for parts, I'm thinking I'll go with Moog K778. I called NAPA and
> they said they had moog parts, so I drove down there and discovered
> it's actually NAPA brand cross-referenced as Moog. So I'll probably
> order on-line. From what I can tell Moog has been around a long time
> and has a good reputation.
NAPA sells DANA ball joints (part # 260-1048 - about $45+tax each) for
your truck, the NCP Napa Chassis Parts are a very good quality ball
joint. Thats what I put in Christine and I was really impressed with
how hefty and tough they are. Don't go with the Master Ride economy
parts - they arn't junk - but the top of the line DANAs are much better.
>
> I'm interested in hearing from others who have completed this
> successfully because I know suspension work is a pain, and I don't
> want to get things torn apart and then discover I can't finish it.
Soak the living snot outta the upper ball joint with PB Blaster (NOT WD
40!) every day for a few days before you go to change them. You might
need a cheater bar. I used a 3/4 drive ratchet with a 3 foot hunk of
galvanized 2.5 inch pipe as a cheater. Remember these uppers are
threaded. And the threads are nothing more than a mere suggestion of
threads. Basically groves. Its VERY easy to cross thread the ball
joint when reinstalling it. Might want to use a fine grit sand paper or
a scuff pad (think plastic brillo) to clean up the threads in the upper
control arm before you put the new ball joint in. Wipe it out, and I
used a shot of PB blaster to act as a lubricant to aid in installing to
keep it from seizing up. Thread it in as much as possible by hand. And
keep an eye on it to make sure its not cocked crooked. If the top of
the ball joint isnt parraelle to the seating face on the control arm,
back it out and start over. If you feel it bind up and start to get
harder to turn the wrench, back it out start over.
>
> Also, just for reference I got a verbal quote from the local dodge
> dealer: $343.52 per side, parts & labor, including alignment. Parts
> alone were $142.98 a side. This was just for the upper ball joints.
Bah - way too much for a realitivly simple procedure. 12 bolts securing
the axles to the Diff - two spindle nuts, two ball joint nuts - couple
wahcks with a hammer and a pickle fork, thread em out, thread em in -
put it all back together. Do 'em enough and you can change em out in an
hour and a half from jack up to jack down... if you don't have any
complications.
Also - you dont need an alignment after changing them. Ball joint
replacement should not affect the alignment. Even if you pop the outer
tierod out of the knuckle - its not going to mess with alignment - but
if you need an alignment done anyway well then thats different.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
>
> P.S. Please also CC: me on replies if possible, since I'm in digest mode.
>
E-mail sent!
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