Dan,
I just R&R'd the WP on my 94 Dak 5.2L this week. Third time - ugly.
I ran into the same problem you have with four holes on the pulley on
the new WP and didn't like what the WP builder changed because it makes
it harder to R&R the fan clutch assembly.
The OEM pump has a flange with four tapped holes on which the pulley is
mounted with four 1/4-20 bolts. I change them from hex hd to Cap
Screws to make it better to use a square shanked screw driver on.
I removed two of the cap screws and placed a long sq. shk. screw driver
so that it is between the two cap screws and other end is proped under
the shaft of the air pump or whatever you can find on the driver side
of the engine to support anti-rotation.
This is assuming you have already un-bolted the AC and Alt. and the
super-bracket and moved them out of the way. Top Rad hose (just from
rad only not inlet) and Serpentine removed also.
I used a 1-1/2" open end wrench (and it is right-hand thread) on the
fan clutch, so yes CCW rotation. I found this method to be the least
gut-busting...if ya know what I mean.
After spending much time removing the old gasket (even using a
steam-generator/cleaner) and mounting the new WP I saw that I was going
to have a problem with the new design pulley with 4 holes.
So, I'm thiking of using a long 1/4 thk X 1" steel bar and drilling
two holes to match the same distance as the WP pulley. Then screw in
two cap screws to make a Pin-spanner wrench to insert into the WP
pulley holes. All you need is two holes of the pulley to add that long
bar to to keep it from moving when removing the fan clutch nut.
I tried to use the Serpentine belt as a brake and applied more pressure
to the idler arm, but it slipps on the WP pulley due to mechanical and
or frictional disadvantage.
If all else fails there is always a chain vise grip wrench that
plumbers use but with a short handle its going to be a gut buster.
Btw, this is the 3rd WP because after replacing sometime ago with a GMB
waterpump, the pulley worked its way off the WP shaft, taking out the
Fan assy and the radiator. You can imagine how a Fan blade can tear up
a radiator spinning at 2500 rpms?
GMB is supposed to have a good reputation, but somehow the QC
inspection on the interference fit on the shaft and pulley was off. I
don't understand why they just don't pin the shaft? It cost me big
repairs $$ so I just used the old OEM pump when I replace the fan and
radiator. Now the bearings have worn and it is noisy and has much
radial play. So I took the GMB wp back to A-zone and they didn't
hesitate to give me a new one in swap, but it was their house brand and
still with LT warranty. The unit didn't look bad, has all the parts
even down to the tiny o-ring for the heater tube.
Another hint - don't try to reuse the bypass hose. Just cut it off
with a blade and use a new one. Way less work and more reliable in the
end.
Ron
=====================================
FSM and water pump removal
From: Dan Kramarsky (dkramarsky68@yahoo.com)
Date: Mon Sep 03 2007 - 16:30:59 EDT
ok DMLers. I am determined to tackle my water pump myself. :)
I ordered my parts from RockAuto.com. Got the water pump for about $37
and a gasket.
Plus while I am there I decided to replaced the idler puller with a
Gates pulley cause
that pulley seems to squeal a bit. And I will replace the tensioner
pulley because its
been there for 13 years.
My question is this:
In Section 7, page 15 of 1994 Dakota FSM we have this:
"Use a 36mm fan wrench to turn fan mounting nut _CounterClockwise_ as
viewed from the
front......"
and right after that sentence we have this:
"... place a bar or screwdriver between water pump pulley bolts to
prevent pulley from
rotating."
Problem: I don't have any water pump pulley bolts. Apparently there are
supposed to be
4 of them. But all I have on the face of water pump pulley is 4 empty
holes. ( huh? )
Yep. 4 holes.
Do I need to get a special wrench now to hold the pulley in place?
If I do need a special tool, can someone please post a link to it?
thanks!!!
-dan
Dan K.
Vehicle: 1992 Dakota Club Cab LE Color: Two-tone silver Engine: 5.2L
EFI
Options: A/C, Cruise, PS, PB, PW, PL, 3.55 gear, 46RH, tinted rear
slider.
Mods: Home-brew CAI, K&N Filters, 180* T-stat, relocated IAT, DynoMax
Super Turbo Exhaust Kit, Hi-Flow Cat, Autolite Platinum plugs, 8mm
wires, Gates hoses and belts.
Photo: http://static.flickr.com/42/84856795_c18903d10f.jpg
Whats Next: Mopar Performance PCM, March pullies, 3.91 rear gear with
LSD, electric fan, KYB shocks, re-paint body, 2/4 drop kit.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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