David Margrave wrote:
>
> The shop manual is a little vague on how to handle the lowers on a
> 4x4. They show how to do it on a 2wd but the configuration is
> different on a 4wd, the ball stud is facing down instead of up.
Configuration is different - process is the same.
> First, I assume I'll have to relieve the torsion bar.
Yes you have to unload the torsion bar - it will be very difficult if
not impossible to get the lower control arm back into the steering
knuckle with the bars loaded.
> For the balljoint, one way to do it is to take the whole lower control arm
off and
> press out the ball joint on a shop press. Is there a way to do it
> without removing the LCA?
Not necessary to remove the control arm at all.
> Is it possible to leave the axle shaft in
> when doing the lowers or am I going to want to take it out anyhow just
> to have room?
CV axle has to come out to do the lower ball joints. This is because you
have to have room to fit the ball joint press in there.
> Finally I assume I would need an alignment after doing
> this (unlike the uppers which are thread-in).
>
Not necessarily. With the nature of the ball joint design, you should
not need an alignment after changing them. However if you want to have
one done anyway - it can't hurt.
Basically the process is you remove the CV axles - 6 bolts on the
inboard flange - use a 9/16ths socket/wrench... and undo the spindle nut
(forgot that size). Pick up a ball joint press somewhere - Autozone is
good for renting them and you can get the money back upon return. Using
the varions sleeves and cups - press out the old ball joint and press in
the new one. It might take a little fussing to find the right
combination of sleeves and washers - but it will work.
-- ------------------------------------------------------------ 50 seconds of pleasure, 50 years of regret... Wookiee Love is pointless - Anarchy Steering Committee ------------------------------------------------------------ http://members.aol.com/silvereightynine/ AIM & Yahoo: SilverEightynine
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