First off, is the filter tube isn't sealing properly - you'll have line
pressure codes, gear shifting codes, and solenoid codes. Make sure that you
use a NEW seal every time you change the filter and it's seated properly.
Now as for the resistor in the signal line, which resistance value did you
use and which wire did you install it in? As for revving the engine to
clear the dirt in the solenoids...BS - ain't gonna work. This isn't an old
style transmission anymore - the solenoids control the the line pressure and
revving the engine isn't going to do anything to clear them out.
If the electronics aren't working properly and/or the TCM isn't receiving
the correct line pressure signal, you'll have all sorts of strange issues.
I wouldn't worry about the transmission yet - check the basics first.
Question: After the transgo installation, did you have someone clear out
the transmission adaptives, run a quick-learn, and also relearn the CVI's?
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: Ned Buckmaster [mailto:ned@buckmaster.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 8:52 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: 2K 4.7L/RFE45 troubles
I have recently started having tranny troubles since the weather has turned
cold here. First, let me tell you the mods done to the truck:
It has the Transgo reprogramming kit installed, with the resistor mod. It
has 2005 HO cams and intake, Airaid filter, Fastman TB, Gibson cat-back
exhaust, and Jet stage 2 chip.
I had a little trouble with the Tranny mod I did in the spring; the Transgo
kit was good but the Autozone filter I installed did not seal at the pickup
tube. I got about 1/4 mile from home and the truck would not move anymore,
and I got codes related to tranny pressure. A call to Transgo suggested
there was dirt in a valve, and to rev the crap out of it in gear to try to
blow the dirt out. I quit that when smoke came out the filler tube, removed
the pan again, saw that the pickup tube had fallen out of the tranny,
replaced it with a Mopar filter, and all was mostly well. It would go into
reverse immediately, but would take a while to drop into drive. After about
a week and another quart of -4 fluid, it worked well until this week.
On the first 25 degree day, I got a tranny pressure code (sorry, can't
remember exactly what it was, but it was the same one I got before) as soon
as I started it. When I got to the first stop light, if floated back and
forth between drive and neutral until the light changed. I revved it a
little, it dropped back into drive and I went to work. When I got home that
night, I reset the code and it didn't come back. The next cold morning it
did the same thing at the first stop light I hit - then at the second one it
seemed as if the torque converter stayed locked - It killed the engine when
I stopped. Started it back up and it worked fine going to work. Same thing
happened coming home - didn't want to stay engaged at the first and second
stop, and killed the engine at the third stop. Then worked fine the rest of
the way home. I checked fluid when it was hot - it was between the 'full
cold' and full hot' marks, so I added some tranny fluid. Next morning, same
thing, except it killed the engine twice. I noticed on the interstate it
didn't really want to slow down when I let off the gas. When I hit the next
stop light, it was hard to stop and it was idling at 1500 rpm in gear - 3000
rpm in neutral. Hit the throttle a couple of times and it wouldn't come
down. Dropped it back into drive, chirped the tires and drove the remaining
1/4 mile to work. Parked it and put it neutral - 3000 rpm. Without touching
the accelerator, I shut it off and restarted it. Idled at 600 rpm, just as
it should. During the day it warmed up to 50, and it worked fine all the way
home.
A couple of questions: First, does anyone have a clue as to what is going
on? Second, there is an RFE 545 tranny out of a 2005 for sale locally - is
that a drop it replacement for my tranny?
Thanks,
Ned
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