On Wed, February 13, 2008 2:53 pm, Ray Irons wrote:
>
> Now no where in that did I read about nearly having to
> disassemble the dash, or has DC neatly left that part
> out?
>
> Any help, tips or tricks that I'd need to know wouold
> be greatly appreciated. Truck is a 98 with a 3.9L
> w/AC.
I may be late to the party here but you'll for sure have to move the dash and
steering column out of the way. Here's a couple of tips from the few times
I've had to pull my dash out.
- You need to pull the radio.
- You need to drop or remove the steering column. I'd do this with the wheel
in the locked position so that you won't have to worry about recentering the
clockspring. To pull the column out you'll need to disconnect the wiring
that runs up the column as well as the airbag module that's on the bottom
center of the dash. You'll also need to disconnect the bulkhead connector on
the far left so that you'll have enough slack to pull the dash down.
- Pull the kickpanels
- Once the column and airbag module are disconnected unscrew the screws
across the dash along the windshield, then loosen the two bolts that are
along the doorjambs. They are in a slotted flange that's connected to the
dash.
- After all the screws along the windshield are removed and the ones on the
sides are loosened you can then lift and pull the dash up and towards you.
It'll tilt out from the top down, just set it on the cab floor. You can pull
it all the way out if you think that'd be easier but there are a few
connections on the back of it that you need to watch out for.
- some of the screws that hold the HVAC box to the firewall have to be
accessed from the engine compartment.
It took me about 6 hours to do the job (with hand tools) the first time I had
to do it but it's not too bad. Just tedious. If you're going to be doing
the work you might as well replace the evap core as well while you're in
there. You have to open the A/C system anyway so it's nothing to just do it.
Watch out for the nasty green stuff that comes out of the evap core, it'll
stain anything fabric it gets on. Additionally since you're going to be
doing this job in a low temperature environment you may not be able to get a
full charge of refrigerant back in there when you put it back together.
Remember to evacuate the system before you add the refrigerant.
Also, don't buy your parts from the dealer. The stock heater core is
weaksauce. Napa has a really nice brass/copper one that works like a champ.
I can't even begin to tell you how warm my truck gets inside even with the
180 stat.
Some of this may be a little different, my truck is a 2000 and the last time
I did this was about 3 years ago so I'm a little fuzzy. I apologize for any
incorrect/incomplete information, but with anything posted on an email list
it's at your own risk.
Good luck and have fun!
-- - Josh www.omg-stfu.comThis message has been brought to you by the American Kneejerk Coalition for Equality, Compassion, and the Restoration of Karmic Unity of Self And Other Silly Hippy Happy-Swell Gayness Bullshit, or AKCECRKUSAOSHHSGB for short.
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Sun Mar 02 2008 - 02:10:11 EST