Rem: If you drop the tank run most of the gas out, the added weight of
the fuel is a bummer to mess with and it moves around while you are
working with it so it's a challenge. With the water pump rem: that
most of the fittings might take metric tools. It ain't rocket science
but you need a little time to deal with your emotions while messing
with it. I had mine off and back together in about 4 hrs.
John
On Sun, Aug 3, 2008 at 9:50 PM, Brian <hskr@cox.net> wrote:
>
> Well, if he's paying a shop to do it, I guess it would be up to the shop on
> how they do it. Either way, it won't be cheap for him. If he's doing it by
> himself in a parking lot, dropping the tank might be easier than lifting the
> bed by himself. Either way, not an easy job.
>
> brian cropp
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Bernd D.
> Ratsch
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 8:10 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: RE: RE: Water pump
>
>
> You don't have to drop the tank at all...lift the bed up and take it out
> from the top. (Toolbox and/or camper shell depending though). On the
> quad-cabs, yes...drop the tank.
>
> - Bernd
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian [mailto:hskr@cox.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 7:43 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: RE: Water pump
>
>
> Good luck taking it to a shop without getting bent over. Water pump is easy
> to do with just a basic tool set, even in a parking lot. If you don't have
> any other problems with the truck, I'd just stick with doing the water pump
> for now. As for your other questions.
>
> Timing chain, get a Cloyes True timing chain set
>
> Belly pan gasket is technically refered to as plenum gasket on the intake
> manifold
>
> IMO, the stock replacement water pumps work just fine, no need to spend the
> money on a "high flow" water pump that won't help much anywyas.
>
> Fuel pump is a PITA and will cost a lot since they have to drop the tank and
> the assembly itself is over $100. Don't worry about it.
>
>
>
> brian cropp
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
> [mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Mike Burgess
> Sent: Sunday, August 03, 2008 3:17 PM
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
> Subject: DML: Water pump
>
>
> Oh wise list, a happy DAK owner asks:
>
> Got a '98 318/5.2 that has 112,000 miles on it.
>
> Water pump has started to drip. I guess I might have a week to figure out
> what to do, before it goes completely.
>
> I'm in Los Angeles, and have no garage or tools or workspace to speak of, so
> I'll need to take it to a shop.
>
> I'm also considering doing the following and making this a major overhaul.
>
> Timing Chain
> Clean Throttle Body
> O2 sensors (orig still in there. well frozen I suspect)
> Intake/Belly pan gasket R&R for a solid one.
>
> I'm wondering
> 1) what shop - suggestions
> 2) what to ask for in a chain ( & buffer ? )
> 3) the right name for the big honking Belly Pan Gasket
> 4) having gotten 112K on the water pump, are the any better ones out there?
> 5) is it worth doing anything about a seemingly fine fuel pump?
> 6) no symptoms of anything else.
>
> I've been running Mobil 1 since 10K, so I assume all the innards are ok,
> anything that is prone to go bad I should look into while it's open ?
>
> Heater core - been keeping clean anti-freeze all this time, should core be
> ok, or with the water pump leak sealed up, is the core likely to pee all
> over my carpet now ?
>
> Mike
> '98 Club cab, 318, auto, LSD, squeaky urethane bushings, JBA ceramic coated
> headers & Y pipe
>
>
>
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> 5:30 PM
>
>
>
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