Heck, we do it the easy way. Hold the fan, crank the engine...if you can't
hold onto the fan, it's bad. (Yes...i'm serious - "don't try this at
home").
- Bernd
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian [mailto:hskr@cox.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 9:53 PM
To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
Subject: DML: RE: Hot Hot Hot
Check your clutch fan to make sure it's engaging. It's easy and, the best
part, FREE to check. Get the engine up to operating temps to where the fan
clutch should be engaged, shut the truck off(very important step) Open the
hood and try to spin the clutch fan by hand(which is why turning truck off
is important) if you can spin it by hand, then the clutch is bad and need
replaced. When the clutch is engaged, you shouldn't be able to spin it very
easily at all. There is also a way to check it cold by counting the number
of rotations the fan makes before it stops, but can't remember exactly.
Just judging by what you posted and when it was overheating, my bet would be
on the clutch fan being bad.
brian cropp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@bent.twistedbits.net] On Behalf Of Matt Beazer
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 3:16 AM
To: dakota-truck-moderator@bent.twistedbits.net
Subject: DML: Hot Hot Hot
Well, I found out some good news and some bad news today... the good
news is I found out my '95 Sport V8 has a limited slip rear end (spun
the wires with the rear end in the air... both went the same
direction) and skidplates. The downside is I drove it the first time
in hot weather (90 degrees) and it came real close to overheating.
I drove in stop and go traffic and it hit 3/4ths of the gauge before I
killed the AC. The rest of the trip (35 minutes) it varied from half
to 3/4ths with the AC off. When I stopped for 15 minutes it got cool
again, and stayed that way on the highway until I got in city traffic
again, then it hit half before I stopped. Normally it sits at 1/4.
The upper hose is firm so the system is pressurizing fine, it has a
new radiator cap and a brand new water pump, serpentine belt and
tensioner.
I don't know if the clutch fan isn't engaging properly (it doesn't
seem to be pulling much air when it's hot) or if I need a new
radiator, or if I just have an air bubble in the system still after I
changed the water pump. Is there an air purge procedure I need to do?
Either that or the aluminum chunks from my bad water pump have clogged
the radiator core...
Anyone have any opinions on Sherman radiators? Rock auto has a 2 row
Sherman unit for $127 that looks to be made of aluminum that's spec'ed
for the 318... I like all the equipment this truck has, but it's sure
taking a chunk out of my wallet. :p So much for getting the MP PCM
next paycheck...
Thanks,
MattB
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