Matt Beazer wrote:
>
>
> Well, I got a front end alignment on my '95 4x4 Dak today. I had the
> new wheels/tires on (15" eagle alloys with 30x9.5 Hankook M/T tires) and
> first off the lug nuts I had on the truck of course would not fit (wrong
> style of acorn nut apparently). So the guys at the shop were nice and
> got me some new ones for cheap. No biggie. They were good guys, that
> and they saw the new pitman arm/idler arm/tirerod ends and asked about
> who's done it, and they were surprised when I told them I had.
>
> So it gets aligned fine, then the guy goes to pull it out for a test
> drive, and guess what, the #@$@ tires rub on the lower edge of the
> fenderwell openings on the plastic factory fender flares. So I had to
> have 'em put the old rims and (mostly bald) tires back on. The
> backspacing on the rims is such they stick out of the fender wells a
> good 2" further than stock.
>
> So it looks like I have some choices:
>
> 1.) 2" body lift -- I hear these are a pain to do, is this true? Any
> recommendations for a kit? I heard something about cooling being
> affected as well.
>
> 2.) Buy some other rims... which leaves me with some 15" rims I can't
> unload due to the oddball bolt pattern.
>
> 3.) Take a Sawzall and a BFH (Big $#$@ Hammer) to the fender well
> openings to make them fit, then put on some wide aftermarket fender
> flares. I'm not too adverse to this, as this truck has been nothing but
> a pain in the rear since I bought it, and I have nothing against doing
> something "custom"
>
> The torsion bars are already about cranked to max from the previous
> owner getting the 31x10.5" tires to fit... so that's not an option either.
>
> Any opinions, or ideas I missed?
>
> Thanks!
>
> MattB
>
I would not do option 3 - sawzall and hammer... thats something ya do to a ford ranger thats
rusted to hell and you dont care about its body lines anymore.
Body lift gets my vote. I don't know if you can find a 2 inch lift, I only found three inch
lifts when I did mine.
It's not that bad to do really. You have 8 cab mounts with an extended cab I think... and 6 or
8 in the back for the bed. Start with one or the other, dont undo both cab and bed at the same
time. The gas tank filler neck should have enough slack init that you dont have to stretch it.
Just have to pull it out of the tank a couple inches and make sure it doesnt kink when you
lift the bed. The fan shroud has to be removedor have the bottom hacked off by the fan
blades.Worst part is the steering shaft extension. I bought a Trailmaster kit - back when they
were actually selling stuff... the slip shaft extension isn't teh greatest, but perhaps another
compant (performance accessories?) will have a better solution. Best solution would be to have
a custom aftermarket shaft made.
Radiator hoses did not need to be changed for the lift... there was no adverse cooling effect
to the body lift. The automatic trans gear shift rod for the column shift will need to be
lenghtened.... i found one off an older Ram that fit very well... Trailmasters solition was a 3
inch rod you had to cut and weld into place... cheap bastards. No wonder they went to hell.
You also need to lengthen the 4x4 gear shifter. Hopefully the kit will include an extension -
the gear shifter boot didnt need to be replaced. I recommend changing the cab mount bushings
while you have them apart.
Also you will need to recheck the cab and bed mounting bolts from time to time... as well as
relocate teh bumpers up. I threw a roll pan on the back which solved that issue - I still
havnt remounted the front bumper. Good kits will supply you with new brackets. Cheap kits
tell you to "drill three inches up andd remount"
-- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Man is the only kind of varmint [who] sets his own trap, baits it, then steps in it" -John Steinbeck -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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