I would think that it could be welded back up depending on how much corrosion is in the area. If the metal is too thin then they will end up blowing a hole in it. I think the joints are solder and not welded. You also need to keep in mind the amount of oil residue inside the system. It might not mix well with solder making it hard to seal up. And if they over do it there is no way of telling if there is any slag inside the system after the weld. If it were all copper you could solder it no problem. I'm not sure how easy it is to solder aluminum.
If it were me I'd buy a new one if you plan on keeping the truck for a time to come.
I'd also replace the acumulator/dryer, expansion orfice tube, evacuate the system with a pump and refill with new gas. Luckly all of this is pretty straight forward and not too hard to do. You will need to buy a set of fuel line removal tools. I think that's what it's called. The fitting on the A/C lines have a spring inside them that you'll need a tool to remove. I bought a cheap set of plastic ones that had 4-5 different sizes in it.
--Hop
> Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2009 12:39:15 -0400
> From: metalshop@optonline.net
> Subject: DML: Re: Leak in AC refrigerant
> To: Dakota-Truck@dakota-truck.net
> CC: hopsdak@hotmail.com; rsb7424@gmail.com; ffastje@cox.net; BPracing@wowway.com; mikesykes@cox.net; bocd@optonline.net
>
>
> In light of new information, I'm posting back.
>
> Firstly, thanks for thoughts registered by Hop, Rascal, TIA, Ray, Miggity &
> Bob.
>
> A soap bubble test I attempted turned up no information. All joints seemed
> to be fine.
>
> I then took the Dakota to a shop that - for $65 - finally isolated the leak.
> It was NOT the evaporator (thank you Jesus), nor the compressor, nor any
> hose fitting. It turned out to be 2 of the many 180-degree fittings welded
> on the ends of the parallel tubes running thru the condenser! Tiniest leak
> you ever saw. You had to look really close to see the intsy drop of green
> fluid at the joint. Another clue was the black paint that had peeled off
> ONLY these 2 fittings (R134a seems to go to work on paint).
>
> So, now I pose a question I think I know the answer to:
>
> Could the condenser be removed, CLEANED and taken top a good aluminum welder
> for repair of these joints?
>
> OR
>
> Should the condenser be wholesale replaced?
>
> I know what the mechanic told me but I wondered what the savvy DML guys
> might say.
> BTW, assuming I should replace, can anyone salute the ACI unit shown here:
> http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/details/Dodge/Dakota/ACI/A-fs-C_Condenser/1997/Sport/P40116P.html
>
> Seems like a good one for the price.
>
>
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