Thanks for the how to. I hope to never need it considering the
relatively salt-free area I live in, but it's nice to know. Heck until
I got a Dakota I'd never dealt with rusty exhaust components falling off
before. ;)
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: DML: RE: RE: Dakota bleeder fittings - What Size?
From: Tom Coulter <metalshop@optonline.net>
Date: Wed, July 28, 2010 7:25 pm
To: Dakota Mailing List <Dakota-Truck@dakota-truck.net>
Albeit belated, this is my last post on this topic.
Fist, to the sophomoric "drive bys" posted by Battles & Knox. These 2
stooges revealed both their mechanical ignorance and lack of experience
with
the task at hand. I'm not gonna spend any time explaining why a crescent
wrench is (was) inappropriate for a miserably stubborn bleed screw with
an
impossible hex but maybe in their world, a crescent is their tool of
choice
for working on a Dakota. hahahaha
Nexcup's suggestion to use vice grips was sensible, but even that
failed.
After removing it using the "sledge-hammer method" (details omitted
here), I
replaced it w/ a new aftermarket valve obtained from PepBoys (ProStop
Brake
Hardware). The good news is, whereas the stock valves designed by the
morons at Chrysler had their skinny hex protrude a scant 0.065" above
the
cylinder body, the (much better) aftermarket ones are 1/8" longer and
the
(still too skinny) hex is out where a guy can at least get a box wrench
on
it.
Back to my original question, which seems academic at this point. Like
most
of the questions I pose, I end up answering them myself. In this case,
for
the '97 Dakota, the best answer is empirical:
Rears: 10mm
Fronts: 3/8" (as I originally suspected); 3/8-24 threads
Now, the Paul Harvey "rest of the story":
If a "main brake line" fails on the Dakota, I recommend this procedure
(having been thru it by now):
1) DON'T buy the CuNi alloy line; spend less than half as much and buy
the
regular 3/16" steel line (mine came in a 25' roll). A straight length
10'
10" should do. Each end will need to be bent 90 degrees (about 2" from
each
end) with a tubing bender and terminated using a ISO bubble flaring tool
AFTER #2 below (see my earlier post on 7/20/10).
2) Do something Chrysler SHOULD have done: lightly coat this line, a
little
at a time, w/ bearing grease and push on a jacket of Tygon tubing (¼"
ID; ?"
OD). Push this all the way onto the steel line - end to end - BEFORE the
bends and flares are put on. This tubing will positively protect the
line
from rust & corrosive road salt solutions - forever!
3) Tape each flare to keep debris out and slide it under the pickup
along
the left chassis rail, from rear to front. There's a place where you can
slide it up over a cross member. Use quick grip clamps to temporarily
hold
it in place.
4) Connect the rear joint first. You will have to use your left hand (no
other choice unless you remove the bed) and, if you are like me, it'll
take
over an hour to get the cussin' thing started and you'll have a lovely
blister on your left thumb. Very Zen.
5) Go to the front and fasten this joint (it'll be much easier).
6) Get some small clamps, preferably plastic (e.g., Gardner/Bender cable
clamps - ½"). You'll need to drill ?" holes into the frame member for
#8
sheet metal screws. I placed 3 clamps "fore" (in front of the cross
member)
and 3 clamps "aft" and the line was secured very nicely.
7) Bleed the brakes per usual procedure and you're good to go.
I hope this helps someone else who might have this problem.
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