Now I'm not saying that the intermediate shaft is your problem, just
that it was my problem.
I had a bit of slop in the steering for most of a year. At first I just
couldn't figure out where it was coming from but finally it got bad
enough I traced it to the intermediate steering shaft. One of the
u-joints in the shaft was gone. I had to get under the dashboard and
turn the steering wheel while holding the shaft. Only then could I feel
the play. When I eye-balled it it looked fine.
I ordered one out of the States ($175USD v.s. ~400CDN) and it really
wasn't that hard to install. (Of course I'm glossing over the actual
install, cause it was a bit of a PITA since the replacement had a
stamping bulge that prevented it from going in easy).
Now the steering wheel sits at a 15deg angle and I keep meaning to get
it into the alignment shop....but no there's no play.
Ordered mine out of 1A Auto part # STC-00081 (looking at invoice right now).
Rob S.
On 10-07-30 03:50 PM, mailinglists@moparhowto.com wrote:
>
>
> I know I should replace everything I'm just cheap and lazy and my
> closest garage I can use is 22 miles and 40 minutes away each direction,
> making it hard to do a prolonged project. I have a shop that I trust
> for tasks such as this who would charge me $175 if I bring them the box,
> including redoing the front end alignment when done.
>
> I thought it might be one of the joints in the steering shaft, but the
> shaft itself is in good condition and rust free. I know there's a slip
> joint of some kind in the rubber boot on the shaft that people have
> problems with, but when I pop the hood, leave the door open and stick my
> arm through the gap between the door and the A-pillar and turn the wheel
> while watching the shaft, the whole steering shaft turns as an assembly
> all the way down to where it couples with the steering box with no
> visible slop even if I turn the wheel hard.
>
> Here's the condition of the shaft, as you can see, zero rust or visible
> corrosion:
>
> http://www.moparhowto.com/pictures/1995-Dakota/engine04.jpg
>
> Thanks,
>
> M.B.
>
> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: DML: Steering Box Replacement
> From: Michael Maskalans<dml@tepidcola.com>
> Date: Fri, July 30, 2010 9:36 am
> To: dakota-truck@dakota-truck.net
>
>
>
> On 28-Jul, 2010, at 01:33 ,<mailinglists@moparhowto.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hello Folks,
>>
>> I need to replace the steering box in my '95 Dak 4x4 in the near future
>> due to a fun noise that's somewhere between a "clack" and a "ping" at
>> low speeds while turning the wheel (parking lots).
>>
>> My question is, should I replace the power steering pump and lines at
>> the same time? I usually do this on rack and pinion steering as when a
>> rack goes bad it usually loads up the fluid with metal particles. I've
>> not taken a sample to look at my Dakota's fluid yet, but I'm assuming if
>> it's cleam and the pump works well I'm fine to just replace the box?
>
> it's suggested to replace all of the power steering components at once
> in large part because there is no filter on the fluid system.
>
> That said your issue sounds not like a box problem but a steering shaft
> issue - either a sticking slip or a bad ujoint. have someone create the
> noise by turning at a standstill and watch for what moves that
> shouldn't.... My money is on the shaft not the box.
>
> A possibly more effective standard way of testing for bad components is
> to have a helper slowly move the wheel through the dead spot, and see
> where the motion ends on the business side of the firewall. Quick easy
> and accurate way to find and ID your source of steering slop.
>
> Mike
> I'd bet I've diagnosed and replaced more steering parts than half the
> rest of list put together...
> You can't loose with fortytwos!
> Just a '98 Dakota rollin on dubs. And tons.
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Mon Nov 01 2010 - 10:47:29 EDT
