From: bcleary@interlog.com@INTERNET on Mon, Feb 12, 1996 4:40 PM
>> The question I have is there any concern that I should be aware of if I just
>> crank the torsion bar adjusting bolts unti the truck sits fairly level? I did
>> put one turn on each bolt Saturday when changing the oil but it still sit has
>> more of a but high attitude than I think it should.
>>
>> Dave Clement
>>
>I've done this adjustment on my 89. I bought the truck new and after
>three years it was sitting butt high. I used the HAYNES manual and
>the inner check point should be 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" higher than the outer
>check point. They state the adjustment must be the same for both
>sides meaning if you adjust one side to 1 1/4" then the other side
>must be 1 1/4". It takes alot of cranking on those torsion bar bolts
>to get it back up to specs but the truck is level now and has stayed
>level for the last three years. Be sure to bounce the truck between
>adjustments to ensure the adjustment is accurate and take it up
>alittle on each side at a time.
>> ps: The 89 3.9l v6 specs out the tea cup sized oil filter. I was able to get
>>the larger Fram PH43 filter on with no problem. This increased the oil
>>capacity enough that it took a full 5 qts of oil and doubles the filter
>>element surface area compared to the specified filter. There appears to be
>>enough room for the full size Fram PH8A filter and I will be checking that out
>>at the next oil change.
>
>Does the PH43 have the pressure valve like the original?
Brian,
Thanks for the input on torsion bar adjustment. Mine was about 1 1/2" higher on
the outer check point which didn't seem right. I will be putting the braker bar
and socket to the adjustment bolt on the torsion bars this weekend.
All automotive oil filters have a pressure relief built in. The intent is to
allow the oil to by pass the filter if the filter element gets plugged up. Most
manufacturers have a spring between the end of the filter can and the element.
If the pressure drop across the element exceeds the design limits the element
moves towards the end of the can allowing the oil to bypass at the flange end.
The Fram PH8, PH43 and PH16 have all been spec'd in various CC products over the
years (thats how I cross reference).
I like to use the largest filter that will fit because it increases the element
surface area thus reducing the likelyhood that any oil will be bypassed and it
increases the volume of oil which reduces that work each oil molecule has to do.
I used the Fram PH8A on my 85 Daytona turbo (it called out the sam tea cup
filter as the Dakota) from the first oil change on and had 240,000 miles on the
engine when we got rid of the car (engine was still running strong but rest of
car was self destructing).
Dave Clement
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:07:20 EDT