You wrote:
>
>> on my Club Cab I put 5x7" Pioneer 2
>> way speakers in place of the stock units, and they made a 500% difference in
>> clarity, and volume...
>
> I've got a Club Cab with stock 4-speaker cassette stereo, and
>have been considering the following sound system modifications.
>I'd like to know what the other list members have done along these
>lines, in order to buy components that will fit with little or no
>modifications (and hopefully use as much of the equipment that I
>currently have as possible). I don't want to cut/splice any part of
>the factory wire harnesses, but am willing to add to the stock
>harness.
>
>Mod. 1: Replace stock rear 5x7 speakers.
>
> What speakers work well in the Dakota application? I'm not interested
>in heavy modification, and would prefer units that fit behind the
>stock grille (though I would consider new grilles as long as I don't
>have to cut up the stock panels).
Ron, a 5x7" poly replacement speaker (Sony, Pioneer) is a BIG improvement over
the stock paper 5x7"s, and is as simple to install as turning a philips head screw
driver. They fit behind the stock fabric covers too...
>Mod. 2: Replace stock front 5.25 speakers.
>
> Ditto (what speakers work well with no mods?).
Again, I went with a Pioneer 5.25" 3-way, and it fit behind the stock grills
on the door panels... A 'snap' I should say!
>Mod. 3: Use my Coustic 2 channel amp to power the rear speakers,
>with the current stereo's speaker-level outputs.
>
> This might be a slight bitch, as I want to do as little drilling
>as possible. I was hoping that I could mount the amp under the
>passenger-side seat, and run inputs from the rear speaker connectors
>to the amp, and run outputs back to the rear speakers. How easy
>is it to run wire under the carpets in this beast?
I have a 2-channel PPI amp mounted in the storage area behind the driver'
seat. I didn't want to put it under the passenger seat, because when you slid
the seat forward for someone to get in the back they would 'step' on it.
I ran my amp's power, and RCA leads along the kick plates to the front of the
truck (the plastic strips next to the door on the floor... I then tucked the
wires under the 'box' in the back (the spare jack and storage box sits ontop of
the cab floor, so you can drill it from the inside of the box, and poke the wires
through). The side panels for the rear speakers was just as easy...The wires
would come out of the bottom on the passenger side, then tuck under the front of
the box on 'till you get to the storage area, then bring through the hole drilled
for power input. The driver's side comes down inside the side panel, then
directly into the storage area. Like this:
pass. speaker (rear) drive. speaker (rear)
| |
| (jack storage) (storage box) |
|-------------------------------+---------------------------|
Wire ->| + /-->AMP<-----------------0 <-hole
|-------------------------------+-0-------------------------+
Wire ->=================================/ ^-hole
Tucked under box/carpet
You run your power out the hole on the bottem, tuck under the edge
of the box on the driver's side, then run down the driver's side kick plate
to your fuse box, and attach to either the radio-fuse, or continue past the fuse
box and go through firewall to the battery *that's how I did it*
>Mod. 4: Upgrade factory cassette head with my pullout CD receiver.
>
> This isn't that big of a deal, since I can buy adapters to fit the
>chassis in the stock location, and hook it in to the wiring harness.
>Given Mod 3 above, it would require that I run new line-level outputs
>to the amp under the passenger seat.
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Ron
>
...Sam
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