>installation. I have installed a pair of 1" tweeters in the door panels =
>where the remote door locks would go. This sounds pretty good and is =
I have the lock switches there, or I would do the same - good call.
>almost stock. The factory door speakers have been replaced with 6" mids =
>which bolt up nicely to the supplied brackets. The phase has been =
>inverted in case you are wondering. I replaced the rear speakers with a =
Are you correcting a phase inversion from the tweeter crossover? I don't
understand why you'd invert the phase on purpose. I presume you ARE blocking
the highs and sub-bass to these drivers.
>inverted in case you are wondering. I replaced the rear speakers with a =
>pair of 8" mid subs I thought the cavity would be well suited for =
>respectable bass. There was a very small amount of trimming needed to =
...
>the sub cabinet was not in use. I want to tighten the bass response in =
>the cavity where the 8" mids are mounted. The speakers are designed for =
>cabinets so what I am thinking needs to take place here is to seal the =
>cavity up to tighten bass. The cavity is riddled with holes and I intend =
>to close them off as best as possible to control leakage. This is by no =
>means going to be simple any ideas? The next part is the resonance =
>issue, the cavity is after all made of sheet metal not conducive to good =
>tonal quality again any ideas? Also if anyone questions my math on the =
The Dynomat stuff another poster mentioned is a good idea. Besides the back
side of the cavity, which is just sheet metal, consider that the front of
the "cabinet" is sheet metal with LOTS of holes, and flexible plastic.
There's a real limit to how good you can get a truck cab to sound. I'd
put Dynomat on the inside of the outer skin, all over the inner sheetmetal,
and add a fiberglass mat between the inner sheetmetal and the plastic of
the cab. The plastic is pretty 'live', even where it's covered with the
rear seat upholstery.
Good Sounds!
Jim
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