Thats fine and dandy Rob, I agree that the semi-metallic pads do stop
better. Since I have been using non metallic pads I do have to use
more preasure on the pedal to get the same braking results as the
semi-metallic pads gave. Problem is, rotors for a Dakota cost over
$90 EACH! The first brake job was done by the dealer, They
replaced both rotors and all new pads, said it was normal wear and
tear. At 20,000 ??? bullshit! ($91 x 2 for rotors + $98 Mopar pads
+ 2hrs labor = over $400) can you say bend over.
The second time I took it to Brake Check, they were able to turn one
of the rotors but the other would not smooth out after turning so it
had to be replaced, 40,000 ($91 for rotor(dealer item) + $86 oem
pads + $125 labor = over $300). Needless to say I was pissed, The
manager told me to keep the front lugs torqued to 95 ft/lbs to keep
this from happening again. The next day I went to Sears and bought a
torque wrench, since then I loosen and re-torque them about every oil
change.
Well guess what? It did'nt work! They started warping again. Thrid
times a charm right? I went down to Napa and had a long talk with
the parts guy. He said that obviously the rotors are made out of
crap if they are not handling the heat any better than that. His
recommendation was either buy someone elses rotors or get away
from those semi-matallic pads. He then turned my rotors, even though
one of them had been turned and was now below spec, for $7 each and
sold me some plain non-metallic pads for about $20 (total cost
including bearing grease,brake fluid and hand wash, about $45). It
took me the better part of an afternoon to do all this and get them
back on the truck (58,000). I now have 89,000 on my truck and have
not had any more problems with my rotors. In fact I still have about
half the pads left so I am not expecting a change until over 100,000.
I had to replace my rear shoes at about 80,000, never any problem
with the drums, go figure.
Now they may not stop as well, and they do make a little more noise
from time to time, but considering the alternative. I was about
ready to get rid of the truck over this whole brake thing, sure glad
I did'nt.
A friend of mine has a Firebird and his uses semi-metallic pads also,
now he gets alot more miles out of his than I did, but his rotors
still warp before the pads wear out. And get this, GM says there not
to be turned. There just within spec brand new. They must be trying
to save weight by screwing you on rotor thickness. The only shop in
town that will turn them is the Napa guy I went to.
Alan... 14.8 @ 91.6
> I beg to differ. I have had several "performance" vehicles and have
> tried both the standard and the semi-metallic pads. The semi-metallic
> pads are FAR SUPERIOR to the standard pads. You lose critical stopping
> distance with the standard pads. Yes, they don't heat up as much, but as
> you remember in science class, less heat mean less friction. More heat,
> more friction, more stopping power, less stopping distance. The best thing
> to do is make sure your rotors are not turned more than once; even if they
> are still "in spec." I tried with a Beretta GT, to keep having a pair of
> rotors "turned" to get rid of the warp, but never succeeded. Even turned
> them on the car, and they still vibated when they got warm. Went to the
> autoparts store and found rotors for 19.95 each. Fixed it immediately and
> never had a problem again.
>
> Also, I completely agree with someone who stated make sure that
> air-wrenches are not used on your rims. They will warp a rotor in a
> heartbeat. As soon as your rotors get warm with odd torque settings, you
> can forget getting them smoothed back out. A reputable tire store will use
> a hand wrench and a torque wrench to put your rims back on. And the
> tighting pattern should be across from each lug as you slowly tighten all
> lugs. Plus it will save those chrome lug covers on your lugnuts.
>
> I do agree that complete metallic pads are overkill for the street and do
> heat up too much. They will wear rotors out fast also. For racing, go for
> the complete metallics. For the street and any car, go for a good set of
> semi-metallics. That is what came on your vehicle and for a good reason!
> (They cost maybe $5 more at a local autoparts store. You don't have to
> have the job done at a dealer.)
>
> *******************************Rob Robinson ********************
>
> Red 96 Dakota Sport V8 3.55 Burgundy 68 Barracuda Fastback
> Shortbed, Standard Cab 318-904 8 3/4 rear3.23 sure-grip
> K&N filterpack-clone Moser cut van axles w 11" drums
> Rhino performance muffler Duals with Formula S exhaust tips
> w/dual exhaust Power steering/Dealer installed
> airconditioning
>
>
>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:08:06 EDT