Is the stock magnum engine ratio 1.5 or 1.6? Going to 1.7 could deviate
pretty far from ideal geometry if stock is 1.5. Why not a new cam instead
of the rockers? Should provide better performance without geometry
compromise. Comp cams and Mopar put out a couple of offerings. I know what
its like to suck a valve at high speed and LOOSE. Oh, and then PAY to
rebuild. Wont those rockers violate your warranty? Guess you could suck a
valve, put the stockers back on and then complain to the dealer, but those
cut out baffels are going to be a give away...
BKB
98 amethyst CC R/T 360 (stock, but waiting for the right mods)
74 Jensen Interceptor MKIII 440 (w/windage tray + ...)
72 Cuda 340 (BIG cam, 1.5-1 rockers + windage tray amongst many other things)
65 formulaS barracuda 273 4bbl, mechanical valve train
67 Cortina GT (lotus + lucas, what a match)
90 Tbird SC (damn #*&%^ ferd)
etc etc.
At 05:33 PM 6/9/98 GMT, you wrote:
> I just finished installing the Crower 1.7's on my purple R/T (1,000
>miles). Here are a few things to consider:
>
> When you order, order part# 73656K, note the "K", this denotes kit and
>contains the needed rocker studs. I ordered (plain) 73656 (as per the
>tech desk at Summit Racing), and got only the arms and locks. This
>caused me to have to place a new order for # 88416 studs. Probably a
>little cheaper, too - but haven't yet checked.
>
> It's quite a job to get the driver side valve cover off, lots of
>maneuvering under hoses, wires, etc. Make sure to note where the studs
>and bolts go on each cover - I made a diagram. Took about 30 mins to
>remove them both. Disconnected the battery just in case.
>
> Finding #1 cyl. TDC wasn't too bad, I pulled the spark plug to be sure
>and probed the hole with a wire. At TDC, you should see the groove on
>the balancer, NOT the drilled balance hole.
>
> Rotating the engine 90 degrees to get the next cyl. was next to
>impossible using the starter. Had to do it this way, though, could not
>see how to get a breaker bar on the balancer without removing lots of
>stuff. Yeah, once the covers were off, I reconnected the battery. I
>got REALLY frustrated here - I finally ended up (not too scientifically)
>using the ("jiggle") method in the next paragraph.
>
> Went through the firing order one cyl. at a time. You should be able
>to "jiggle" both of the stock rockers on the cyl. you are ABOUT to work
>on - if not, you probably aren't on TDC for that cylinder. Remove both
>bolts holding on the assembly, and remove the whole shebang. This will
>be both rockers, both bolts, a link plate, and a pushrod guide plate.
>Now install 2 rocker studs and torque to 20 ft-lbs. These are blind
>holes (no water jackets), but if I'd had Lock-tite, I'd have used it.
>Next, install 2 roller rockers and a poly-lock on each one. Then
>tighten down on the poly-lock until all the clearance is gone (finger
>tight is close) and give it a half turn extra. Now run down the allen
>screw in the center of the poly-lock and tighten it good. Do this for
>the other 7 cyls. and you're almost done.
>
> Before replacing the valve covers, you must remove the baffles from
>them (I know, these are supposed to be a bolt-on, ha ha). Just for
>stupidity's sake, I almost got the pass side on before finding this out.
>I used a cold chisel and hammer to break (tear, actually) the 8 spot
>welds on each cover. Looks ugly on the inside, but you can't tell from
>outside.
>
> Before replacing the covers, I fired up the mill to make sure it would
>run (hey, I had VERY little confidence on my TDC method). Ran like a
>top - no clatter, no ticking, not even a check engine light! All in
>all, took about 3.5 hours, but could take less if you know how to rotate
>the crank 90 degrees at a time. Took it around the block, but couldn't
>tell much, performance-wise. I'll G-Tech it this weekend (if it doesn't
>rain) and post results soon,
>
> Later,
>
> Russ Selkirk
>
>--
>'96 Black Impala SS
>'85 Silver Monte SS
>'98 Amethyst Dakota R/T
> - Port Neches,Texas
>=================================
>NOTE: Anti-Spam Address! Please
>reply to: RAS002@worldnet.att.net
>=================================
>
>
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