#
I called Summit the other dayto order a 14" open air element for the FABM .
I gave them the Edlebrock part # per Sean and then told em I wanted the
generic Summit equivilent .
Instead of the drop-base cleaner , they sent me the flat-base version .
I havebeen trying to get thruto them on the phone for two days now .
I also remember how dumbfounded the tech sounded when ordering the parts .
I do not think I'll be ordering from them in the future .
PEACE
At 01:53 AM 6/20/98 GMT, you wrote:
>#
> Hello DAKsters,
>
> Well, I was warned (don't laugh so hard Jules). I had about 150 miles
>on the Crowers when one of them "fell off" it's stud. Luckily, it
>didn't take out the keepers or valve. The problem was a combined lack
>of knowledge by myself and Summit Racing.
>
> If you'll remember, I called Summit to order what I thought was a
>complete, bolt-on, no modifications needed kit. What I received was
>just the rocker arms. Another call to Summit got me the studs, but
>little did I know, buying just the studs alone, the box didn't contain
>the necessary washers that go under the studs.
>
> I proceeded to install everything according to directions (no mention
>made of the washers in the instructions). Truck fired up and ran well.
>150 miles later, pop-pop-bang goes the motor (with 1100 total miles on
>it). I got it home, pulled the valve covers, and one rocker was cocked
>off to the side and wedged against the spring. Upon closer inspection,
>the stud had backed out of the head about 1/8", permitting enough
>clearance in the valve gear to allow this to happen. I thought maybe I
>missed torquing one of the studs, but after checking, 4 other studs were
>doing the same.
>
> I called Crower and told them what happened, they were very surprised
>that Summit would even consider selling these parts "piecemeal" and not
>in kit form. They told me the washers would have prevented this from
>happening, and that the new pushrod/guideplate kit was only necessary
>when exceeding the factory redline.
>
> I pulled all the studs, cleaned out the holes and studs with carb
>cleaner, and re-assembled everything with lock-tite this time. Also
>raised the torque setting to 24# from 20# as per Crower. Did a
>compression check on #3 cyl and it was fine.
>
> The bottom line is: If you are considering buying aftermarket parts,
>please call the manufacturer FIRST, and inquire as to what EXACTLY is
>included/required for installation.
>
> Later,
>
> Russ Selkirk (45 & should know better)
>
>P.S.
>Got the check engine light the next day, but never during the popping
>and banging session???
>--
>'96 Black Impala SS
>'85 Silver Monte SS
>'98 Amethyst Dakota RC R/T
> - Port Neches,Texas
>=================================
>NOTE: Anti-Spam Address! Please
>reply to: RAS002@worldnet.att.net
>=================================
>
Jack
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