Russ,
Thanks for the info, Danny, just like his old man, is a good guy. I
didn't even
know they had a guideplate kit for the Magnums. I actually prefer
running
guideplates instead of rails on the rockers themselves (stability at
higher
RPM's). I'll be shipping a set of heads to Dave Hughes @ Hughes Engines
next week for work, (see what we can get out of them). I'd really like
to find
a replacement intake manifold (Magnum manifolds just don't breath) and
nobody
makes one. I don't really want to mess with the two from Mopar
Performance
because of emissions rules and regs. Once the heads, and intake are
done,
I'll select the cam and rocker arms (1.6 or 1.7) to match. Again, thanks
for the
info, I thought Crower was only doing the rail-rocker setup.
Frank
> -----Original Message-----
> From: RAS*002@worldnet.att.net [SMTP:RAS*002@worldnet.att.net]
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 1998 4:46 AM
> To: Holloway, Frank T
> Subject: Crower rocker arms
>
> >Date: Sun, 2 Aug 1998 19:24:04 -0700
> >From: "Holloway,Frank T" <Frank.T.Holloway@KP.ORG>
> >Subject: RE: DML: RE: Cams, I made a mistake;
> >
> >Hay Patrick and Eric,
> >
> >Different subject,
> >The studs for the Crower rocker arms, are they a direct fit or do you
> >need to
> >drill and re-tap. If they are a direct fit, Does Crower offer a
> larger
> >rocker stud?????
> >
> >
> > Frank
>
> Hello Frank,
>
> I have the complete Crower 1.7 package on my R/T. Everything is a
> bolt on with the exception of having to knock out the oil baffles in
> the
> valve covers (a simple 15 minute job) for clearance.
>
> The (first) install was pretty much a nightmare (Murphy's Law),
> since
> I didn't get the kit at first. The problem was a combined lack of
> knowledge by myself and Summit Racing.
>
> I called Summit to order what I thought was a complete, bolt-on, no
> modifications needed kit. What I received was just the rocker arms.
> Another call to Summit got me the studs, but little did I know, buying
> just the studs alone, the box didn't contain the necessary washers
> that
> go under the studs.
>
> I proceeded to install everything according to directions (no
> mention
> made of the washers in the instructions). Truck fired up and ran
> well.
> 150 miles later, pop-pop-bang goes the motor (with 1100 total miles on
> it). I got it home, pulled the valve covers, and one rocker was
> cocked
> off to the side and wedged against the spring. Upon closer
> inspection,
> the stud had backed out of the head about 1/8", permitting enough
> clearance in the valve gear to allow this to happen. I thought maybe
> I
> missed torquing one of the studs, but after checking, 4 other studs
> were
> doing the same.
>
> I called Crower and told them what happened, they were very
> surprised
> that Summit would even consider selling these parts "piecemeal" and
> not
> in kit form. They told me the washers would have prevented this from
> happening, and that the new pushrod/guideplate kit was only necessary
> when exceeding the factory redline.
>
> I pulled all the studs, cleaned out the holes and studs with carb
> cleaner, and re-assembled everything with lock-tite this time. Also
> raised the torque setting to 24# from 20# as per Crower. Did a
> compression check on the "wedgied" cylinder and it was fine.
>
> Since my initial problems, I have purchased and installed the
> pushrod/guideplate kit from Crower "just in case". This does away
> with
> the washers, as the guideplate acts as one. It contains 8 guideplates
> and 16 pushrods.
>
> Got the scoop from Crower on how to properly adjust the rocker lock
> nuts, as they were coming loose too. You adjust the big nut to spec,
> then hand tighten the allen set screw, then snug the big nut with a
> 9/16
> wrench. I was trying to wrench-tighten the allen set screw and it
> wasn't working.
>
> Also, the best way to insure that the cylinder you are working on is
> positioned properly:
>
> 1. While the truck is running, pull the breaker for the fuel pump
> (mine
> is blue, under hood, next to battery). Also, pull the coil wire.
>
> 2. Connect a remote starter switch - find the connector on the single
> brown wire at the rear of/under the battery, disconnect it and attach
> one lead to the end going to the starter. Connect the other end to
> the
> ground lug on the breaker box next to the batt (it won't function
> unless
> connected here).
>
> 3. Bump over the engine until the intake valve "just" closes on the
> cylinder you are working on. This will insure that both valves are
> safely closed. Now it's OK to pull the stock rockers from this
> cylinder, install the Crower parts, and adjust them. Repeat 7 more
> times.
>
> Hopefully, I got Crower to re-write their instruction sheet (so
> others
> won't make my mistakes), which is SORELY lacking in several critical
> areas. They are good people to deal with, though, especially Dan in
> tech support, their resident Mopar guru.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Russ Selkirk
>
> --
> '96 Black Impala SS
> '85 Silver Monte SS
> '98 Amethyst Dakota RC R/T
> - Port Neches,Texas
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> =================================
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