I hope to install my JBAs this weekend and have been saving all of the
install notes everyone posts. Please explain the comment below, "No
leaks... at 3500 miles, they were leaking. " Does this mean that the
"ball and socket" -like connection to the Y pipe started to leak 3500
miles after you put the headers on and the silicone stopped it or are
they leaking now or were they leaking before the headers? I can't imagine
that you've already put 3500 miles on the engine since the install, but,
maybe. As you can tell, I'm confused and would like to prevent any leaks
by paying close attention to what y'all are doing.
TIA
Richard in SA
On Mon, 17 Aug 1998 15:45:07 -0700 "Bridges, Bruce"
<bbridges@alarismed.com> writes:
>Bob,
>No leaks, but I used a light coating of permatex high temp copper
>silicone on the "ballend" dump flanges and copper coat on the manifold
>flange gaskets. Its actually quieter than the stock manifolds, but at
>3500 miles, they were leaking!
>BKB
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Mankin [mailto:bob@cadpros.com]
>Sent: Monday, August 17, 1998 3:04 PM
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>Subject: Re:DML:R/T JBA header install
>
>
>Bridges, Bruce wrote:
>>
>> Hey DML,
>> Got my JBAs on Thursday (CA delivery) and installed on Saturday.
>The
>> install took me about 4 hours (2 beers) and was a piece of cake!
>The
>> header quality was good with some popcorn and a little burr on the
>> collector to flange joint that I knocked off with a file. All other
>> work looked about like my Hooker super comps only with more material
>and
>> thicker welds. I also found that my stock 3500 mile old factory
>> manifolds were leaking at the center ports !! (No gaskets is NOT a
>good
>> thing in my mind) Now that the headers are on my engine compartment
>is
>> quieter!! The left side was the easiest header instll I have ever
>done,
>> with everything accessible. The right side requires removing the
>airbox
>> (on the 5.9 l R/T). The only problem I encountered was on the right
>> side. The rearmost collector bolt ends up directly behind the O2
>sensor
>> making it impossible to install a socket on the nut. Im sure this
>is
>a
>> regular Dak with one sensor at the Y vs. R/T with sensors at the
>flange
>> difference. If the flange was rotated 10 degrees either way it
>would
>be
>> easy! As it is I used a tiny wrench and a lot of patience to
>tighten
>> it. Since I dont have many mles on the truck I reused the stock
>flange
>> bolts and their handy anti rotation keepers (hot tip for loner
>> installs). Or you could remove the O2 sensor and use a socket (the
>best
>> way). I left the center studs in place contrary to the directions
>which
>> made the install of the headers a little tough (added 5 minutes to
>the
>> job) but kept it "more stock" for going back if I ever want to.
>Why,
>I
>> have no idea right now... Watch out for the sharp heat shields on
>the
>> right side!!! Ouch!! so far my butt dyno says : Definite
>driveability
>> improvements! Still feeling it out with a track session next
>weekend!
>> All in all I love the headers, the install was as easy as any, they
>fit
>> perfect with no mods at all required with lots of clearance to all
>heat
>> sensitive things AND they are quieter instead of louder. Take a
>good
>> look at your stock manifolds. They are Logs of the first degree!
>good
>> for low end torque only! Now its off to JBA for a good look at the
>head
>> pipes. After spending so much time under the truck Im not sure how
>much
>> more improvement Im gonna get out of head pipes, but well see what
>they
>> say but Ive got some even more radicle "ideas"...
>> Bruce K Bridges
>> 98 R/T CC JETII, RABB, JBA headers.
>
>Bruce,
>
>Thanks for the post and keep us updated on what you end up doing for a
>Y
>pipe.
>
>My JBAs arrived today. Only got a quick look before I had to come back
>to the office. I'll probably spend 15-20 minutes cleaning them up with
>a
>Dremel, but overall I'm pleased with the workmanship. I know what I'm
>doing Saturday morning, that's for sure<grin>. Did you have any
>trouble
>with leaks after the install? The flanges are clean and flat, I just
>worry about good seal where it connects to the Y pipe.
>
>Now to get some dyno numbers done this week before the install.
>
>Bob
>
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