Reply to transmission trouble.
Thanks to everyone for the quick response. I hope this goes where its
supposed to. I'm a two day old subscriber, and have never used a site like
this before. OK, here are the details of my tranny's past. Again, this is
a '96 318 engine and a 3.55 sure-grip rear.
Original Tranny: (replaced at 26K mi.)
1st- Initial noise sounded like lask in the driveshaft.
2nd- Gears started a suttle whining.
(2nd, 3rd, & 5th if I remember correctly.)
3rd- Strong resistance when accelerating and trying to
hold speed on the highway. It felt like there was a
constant 40-50mph headwind.
4th- Sitting still with the clutch disengaged; all was quiet.
With clutch engaged (in neutral); sounded like the bearings
were ready to fall out.
At this point, the whining noise became very loud (in all but 4th
gear), and I took it to the dealer. Serv. mgr. told me the technician did
not like the way it looked; replaced nothing and ordered a new replacement.
I ask about fluid level and specific wear. I was told the level was normal,
but everything showed abnormal wear. I did not get to speak to the tech
myself, so I never found out the exact details on what he saw, or prompted
the replacement.
Replacement Tranny: (now has 11K mi.)
Initially, all was fine. I now have symptoms #1, #2, and #4 again as
stated above. I'm now waiting for the resistance and loud whining to start
with this one as well.
I don't think its an alignment problem with the engine since I've not
had to replace any seals (at least not yet). The driveshaft was also
replaced just prior to the tranny replacement. The clutch is fine. There
are no other symptoms or sounds; no grinding or crunching. I think that
covers everything. Any questions you have, I will try to answer.
It's funny, I noticed you mentioned having the 3.21 rear. This is what
I originally wanted, but it was not an option in '96 with the V8. It was
only available on the V6.
Eagerly awaiting your responses,
Rich W.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-dakota-truck@buffnet4.buffnet.net
[mailto:owner-dakota-truck@buffnet4.buffnet.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 1998 10:25 AM
To: dakota-truck-digest@buffnet4.buffnet.net
Subject: DML Digest V3 #1260
DML Digest Wednesday, September 9 1998 Volume 03 : Number 1260
The subjects discussed in this digest are:
==========
DML: 14" FABM
Re: DML: (no subject)
Re: DML: Re: Don't want to wait for JBA's? I have a solution.
DML: Re: tranny/engine oil cooler
DML: Scan Tool Buy
Re: DML: CB Installation
Re: DML: CB Installation
DML: RE: Transmission Trouble
DML: RE: Ext warrenty question
Re: DML: Ram Air Hoods
RE: DML: Questions regarding ram-air setups...
DML: Swapping from the 96 to the 99
Re: DML: Lowering the rear only (Vincent)
Re: DML: thanks
DML: RE: 14"FABM ......revisited
RE: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
DML: Re: thanks
DML: Into the lion's maw...
RE: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
DML: overhead shelf
DML: RE: R/T Toe In and welcome
Re: DML: Scan Tool Buy
Re: DML: overhead shelf
RE: DML: Scan Tool Buy
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:08:28 -0400
From: Gary Ludwick <gludwick@csi.com>
Subject: DML: 14" FABM
Man, savin' that 40 bucks is some hard work!! But you're nothin' if not
determined.
K&N FIPK #1503 (sorry...just kinda slipped out!) :-)
Gary
The Internet - Living proof that 10,000 monkeys in a room with 10,000
typewriters will NOT
eventually duplicate the works of Shakespeare!
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:04:09 EDT
From: DodgeBoyz3@aol.com
Subject: Re: DML: (no subject)
In a message dated 9/8/98 6:27:00 PM Central Daylight Time, rap777@juno.com
writes:
> Remember, Amanda turned out to be Tony.
Cousins maybe?????????????
BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
Gene
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 00:06:32 EDT
From: Kabuki2@aol.com
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Don't want to wait for JBA's? I have a solution.
In a message dated 98-09-08 23:41:39 EDT, you write:
<< Patrick,
Will these fit the R/T? I may be interested in starting on the exhaust
side of my R/T. >>
It should. It says all Magnum V-8s in Dakota, Durango, and Ram. When the JBA
buy was going on , did you guys all order the same header or were there
different part numbers for the R/T? If they're the same, these will work.
They're designed to bolt up to the stock Y-pipe.. if you've ever had your
hands on a set of aftermarket Mustang headers, they're very similar except
they have a sharp nickel or chrome plating.
Of course, a longer (I don't think anyone makes a "full" length) header
design
would probably be optimal for all out performance, but these would make a
nice
addition to anyone's exhaust system.
I'm selling these for a friend who bought his headers only to find out
they're
on national backorder. He waited 5 months for these, and by the time they
reaches his door, he's already in the seat of a new Z28 SS...
They could sell at any moment tho - so I wouldn't delay. He's only had them
here in town for a day now, and I suspect they're going to move quickly.
ttyl
Patrick
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 22:28:44 -0700
From: Tim Marks <tmarks@silverlink.net>
Subject: DML: Re: tranny/engine oil cooler
My damn server lost digest 1256 &1257.
What is this group buy for? (Since I started this thread, I am assuming
I will be interested.)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:08:35 -0700
From: Mike Burgess <ax778@lafn.org>
Subject: DML: Scan Tool Buy
A short while back, someone here mentioned they were buying a PC
based Scan/Reset tool that used a PC interface. I picked up the
ball and wrote to the Mfg. to see about a group rate, and got an
answer. But I'd sure like to hear from our list member who bought
the darn thing and find out if it works.
Mike (Los Angeles)
>2) any chance of a discount for a group purchase of say, 25
>units?
25 units shipped to one address and payed on one invoice, would sell for
$200 ea.
Mike,
OBDTool will work on 96 and up Chrysler and foreign vehicles.
>1) will there be a version comeing out that will be able
> to re-program the settings in the controller ( for
>towing,
> raceing, fuel economy etc..)
OBDII does not define the Upload DownLoad functions. My first question
is
why do you want to change the Fuel/ignition maps? The sole purpose of
the
ECU to to measure the air flow thru the engine an inject the proper
amount
of fuel. The Max power, min pollution, and max mileage is the same air
fuel
ratio on a modern day vehicle. Even if you change the exhaust and
intake,
the ECU will see the changes in air flow and inject the proper amount of
fuel.
John Grable
CarComp Inc.
grable@smithville.net
My response:
> to re-program the settings in the controller ( for
>towing, raceing, fuel economy etc..)
I was hoping to play with the ing. timing, since on the Dodge Dakotas,
there is no Ping or Knock sensor. They crank in a fixed amt of timing
at the factory, and there it sets. Runs just great up hills, with a
load on
the engine, which means to me, that the timing is way retarded. I
would
dearly love to get better mileage out of the beast, since I drive
lightly loaded
most of the time, and feel that the spark could safely be advanced. I
understand
the fuel air mix is set and mostly controlled by the 'puter and the
Catalyst,
and getting it too rich will just heat the Cat converter, and the
computer will sense
the O2 sensors fore & aft of the converter, and cut back on fuel. ( I
think)
However, if by advancing the timing, and using 89 octane vs factory
87,
I can get better mileage, I'd be ahead of the game.
Just my opinion, and I'm sure my mileage will vary!
Mike.
PS, I'll see what the interest is on the Dakota mail list is for a
group purchase.
What states do you charge Tax in? that could be a deciding factor on
who
actually does the money business.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 08 Sep 1998 23:05:48 -0700
From: Frank DiGiovanni <fdigiova@direct.ca>
Subject: Re: DML: CB Installation
Jim miller <jmiller@texnet.net> Wrote:
>there are 2 screws under the center of the dash that make a good place for
a
>mounting bracket without drilling any holes in the truck.
I have a stick shift and I don't think this would work :-(( The screws
under the dash is to close to everything for the CB to fit. (ashtray,stick
shift)
************************************************************************
98 Dakota sport CC 4x4, Emerald green pearl coat
5.2L SMPI V8 5 spd, 25H (sport plus package)
H.D. Service Group, Skid plate Group
Trailer tow Group, Anti-spin Diff. (3.92)
K&N Filter, BFG A/T 31x10.5R15
*************************************************************************
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 03:30:08 PDT
From: James Atkinson <destroyer872@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DML: CB Installation
drilling two holes in the bottom of the dash.
Jim
>From owner-dakota-truck@buffnet4.buffnet.net Tue Sep 8 19:31:46 1998
>Received: (from majordom@localhost) by buffnet4.buffnet.net
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> Tue, 8 Sep 1998 19:23:45 -0700
>Message-ID: <000201bddb98$6a37ddc0$08e02399@default>
>From: Jason Muffenbier <Jpm699@email.msn.com>
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>MMDF-Warning: Parse error in original version of preceding line at
buffnet9.buffnet.net
>Subject: Re: DML: CB Installation
>Date: Tue, 8 Sep 1998 18:22:27 -0700
>X-Priority: 3
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>X-Mailing-List: The Dakota Mailing List
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>
>What do you do when the stick shift for 4WD is right there under the
dash???
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>
>
>>there are 2 screws under the center of the dash that make a good place
for
>a
>>mounting bracket without drilling any holes in the truck.
>>
>>Frank DiGiovanni wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone know where to install a CB in the new Dakotas? If anyone
has
>>> pictures on a website or scanned please e-mail me directly.
>>>
>>> My signature file has the options up to date. My webpage will be
coming
>>> soon.
>>>
>>>
************************************************************************
>>> 98 Dakota sport CC 4x4, Emerald green pearl coat
>>> 5.2L SMPI V8 5 spd, 25H (sport plus package)
>>> H.D. Service Group, Skid plate Group
>>> Trailer tow Group, Anti-spin Diff. (3.92)
>>> K&N Filter, BFG A/T 31x10.5R15
>>>
>>>
*************************************************************************
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 06:40:06 -0500
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: DML: RE: Transmission Trouble
Rich,
Something is SERIOUSLY wrong. I don't even know why I'm asking this,
since I don't know anything about manual transmissions, but maybe
someone else will - what was the problem?
I have a 97 318 5 spd rc 3.21 and I do not baby it. Not uncommon for
me to hit the speed limiter on the way to work if traffic will allow.
Probably 30 dragstrip passes on it, and the streets of Dallas are
noticably darker because of me. If you're in a ford or chevy and I
even have a SUSPICION that you think your truck is fast, I'm on you
like a fly on sh!t - next to you revvin' the motor.
My tranny is a little noisier than new - a whine or whirr here and
there, but I think it's all normal. Probably be quieter if I didn't
drive it like I did, but my truck seems to eat it up. BTW - high
mileage too - 34,500 in 13 months.
Good luck,
Tate
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wisotzkey, Rich [SMTP:Rich.Wisotzkey@GSC.GTE.Com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 2:12 PM
To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net'
Subject: DML: Transmission Trouble
Hello Everyone,
Is anyone having trouble with their manual transmissions? I have a
'96 318
with a 3.55 sure-grip rear. At 26K the original factory tranny was
replaced
with a new one (not re-built). Now at 37K, the second one is about
finished
as well. I do not beat my truck, or abuse it by any other "bad
habit"
means. Any ideas or thoughts on a failure cause would be
appreciated?
Thanks,
Rich W.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 06:46:50 -0500
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: DML: RE: Ext warrenty question
Call dealership
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob DeChance [SMTP:kbshadow@email.msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 4:43 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: Ext warrenty question
CC sent me a letter offering the CC extended warrenty on my 98, I lost the
letter and would like the phone # of CC warrenty section if any one else got
the letter.
Thanks
Bob
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:02:02 -0400
From: Thomas Vacchino <tommyv@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: DML: Ram Air Hoods
AAR QUALITY FIBERGLASS
That's the Company your looking for the address is:
AAR QUALITY FIBERGLASS
ALAN A. ALLARD
4800 PINE ST.
COCOA, FL. 32926
You can give em a call @ (407) 638-0961
They'll send you a little pamphlet in a couple days time.
They do list a Cowl hood for 97-98 DAKS
"psychonaut"
Robert Trottmann wrote:
> I believe there is a place in Florida called A.R.E that makes a hood
> very similar to ProGlass'. I saw one at Sport Truck nationals this year,
> and Terry at ProGlass knew about it, but I haven't been able to find the
> company. Other than that, the Prestigious cowl hood for 97+ was
> supposed to be done in February, then April, now "shortly."
> Good Luck. Basically, you've got three choices:
> 1) Wait (who knows how long) for a cowl hood.
> 2) Choose between one and two scoops, and buy the ram air hood you want.
>
> 3) Get a Harwood and have it glassed in, depending on the overall
> condition of you hood.
> -Robert
>
> R.Mock wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know of anywhere else
> > besides East Coast Customs or Proglass
> > to get a RamAir Hood for a 98 R/T???
> > Cowl Hood info would be nice , too.
> > I need a hood BAD.
> >
> > 98 Black CC R/T W/SSViper Strypes .......In Red of Course
> >
> > Feeeeeelin' Punky
>
> --
> Mailto:rotrottmann@davidson.edu
> http://www.davidson.edu/personal/rotrottmann/default.htm
> Davidson, NC
> 95 Sport 318 Auto 2WD
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 05:07:57 -0700
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: RE: DML: Questions regarding ram-air setups...
THANKS RICHARD - I DON'T MEAN TO BE A JERK OR SEEM INHOSPITABLE, BUT
JEEEEZ.....
The archives that Jon has set up are one of the main reasons I love
this list - an invaluable resource. Slipping a statement about why
they are there and what they can do for you might be a good idea in
the monthly "rules" mailer that all the new members get right off the
bat. For any new people - WELCOME! - but if you're asking a question
that was recently covered on the list, you are probably not going to
get replies that are as complete or varied as when the topic was first
discussed, so it would be in your best interest to scour the archives
- - they're Grrrrrrrrreat!
Tate
Ps - I love the humor, but it would probably behoove us to try to stay
more on topic with our postings.... Someone figure out how I can run
13's with an investment of $200 - or make my truck last for 400,000
miles without a rebuild!! Haha!!!
Deja vu, for sure. Perhaps the archives should be required reading
for
all mew members.
Richard in San Antonio
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 05:09:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Magnum Dakota <black318dakota@yahoo.com>
Subject: DML: Swapping from the 96 to the 99
I was wondering, since I have to strip the 96 sport down to return to
stock for the dealer, I figured I could transfer some of the stuff to
the 99 RT that is on the way. I know the MP valve covers will go
over, and the MSD is gonna hit the shelf for the time being, but will
the Magnecore wires, the gibson headers, and the K&N FIPK fit? I
believe they should, but has anyone had any problem putting an open
element filter on the 97-99 daks? I recall somthing called an "S" bolt?
George J Hooper
99 RT (on the way)
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 08:13:16 -0400
From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: DML: Lowering the rear only (Vincent)
Vincent Heckathorn wrote:
>
> I have lowered my truck 2" in the rear using aluminum blocks, but I am
going to
> change over the some steel ones soon. I also lowered the front 1.75" by
cutting
> about 1 coil out of each spring, The ride is very good and it looks a hell
of a
> lot better. The day after I had lowered it, everyone at work was asking me
what I
> had done to the truck.
> Go for it, you will be glad you did.
>
> Colin H.
>
> DkotaKid@aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 9/7/98 8:54:22 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > bnich@bellatlantic.net writes:
> >
> > > I'd like to level out my truck it seems like the rear is 2" higher
than
> > > the front. Anybody done this yet. Can I do it with Blocks? I hear the
alum.
> > > ones are NG. I have a machine shop so I could make a pair out of
plate.
> > > Any one know if they are paralell or have an angle? Thanks again Bob
> >
> > Take it from somebody who's researched (and applied) the crap out of
this
> > subject: me! You can do the lowering any of about 4 respectable ways.
The
> > cheapest by far is with blocks. It's best to get some pre-made blocks,
cuz
> > they have the pin and hole in 'em for keeping the blocks centered. A
decent
> > set will be angled appropriately for the change in pinion angle. You
have to
> > keep the driveshaft at the same angle with the diff. that it cam from
the
> > factory, to insure against premature wear. I did shackles and blocks
once, so
> > I had to add extra angled shims to keep the driveshaft in line. Never
had a
> > prob for 39K miles. Just gotta make sure all the bolts are tightened to
about
> > 6 million ft-lbs tho, as mine worked their way loose a couple times. Oh
yeah,
> > you need longer u-bolts to accomodate the blocks. I thought the 2"
drop was
> > great - it "flattened out" the ride very nicely. Of course, ended up
redoing
> > the rear about 3 different ways, and the front end two different ways,
but
> > that's another story! BTW - get the poly bumpstops for the rear end,
and
> > ditch the factory monsters. You retain the majority of your travel that
way.
> >
> > Andy
Vincent, What year is your truck? Bob
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 08:19:30 -0400
From: Jason & Norah <janor@ican.net>
Subject: Re: DML: thanks
>
>aww...thanks for the welcome all.
>any more women on here?
Welcome Jacqueline!
You've joined a great mailing list. Everyone on here is very nice, helpful,
and extremely knowledgeable. I've had many questions and concerns taken
care of with the help from the members on this list, not to mention that I
met my true love here as well. BTW guys, Jason and I are getting married in
December of this year. We're not sure how or where, but we'll keep you
posted.
And yes there are more women. How many... I can't be sure anymore. Hey
Jon.... maybe we should take a poll. I've been on this list since 1996 and
there have been a few new women members, but there hasn't been a lot heard
from any of them in a while (myself included).
Where are you located? Tell us MORE about your truck.
And again, welcome.
Norah (a real woman-always was, always will be)
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:37:05 -0500
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: DML: RE: 14"FABM ......revisited
HAHA! I'm glad I'm not the only one that did this, Jack. Like you
said - they mean DROPPED!! My suggestion for the pcv nipple is the
local parts place - if they don't have it in the HELP! Line of
products, you might look at various fittings for particular models -
one might fit perfectly. I would also suggest a thin washer of rubber
around the fitting get 'em at the hardware store for about $.80. Slip
it around the inserted tube so as to truly seal it. I've seen some
fittings that just kind of rattle around - lets dirty air in. I
rationalize that a total of five minutes without a breather at the
track is ok, but for my daily driving, I want my air intake system
sealed as well as possible.
As for the upper rad hose, I've been thinking about how to reroute it.
Some pipe, hose bends, and clamps might do it as long as it didn't
restrict flow too much. Time to go look at Sean's page again and see
what he did.....
As for cooler air going into the breather, I have some suggestions.
The weatherstrip that runs nearly the entire length of the black
plastic cowl assembly can be removed and I'll bet air will get in
there. Also remove the rubber air dams from both sides of the
radiator. Finally, has anyone else noticed that they changed the
rubber seal near the top of the radiator? My 97 has a "wall" of
rubber there that touches the hood - seals it off pretty well. 98 and
later models have a flat rubber strip in front of the top of the
radiator that is only for looks as far as I can tell. Maybe CC
engineers thought "hey - let's let some air in here".
Tate
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jack Hilton [SMTP:hemi@mindspring.com]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 6:46 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: 14"FABM ......revisited
Hi all -
Well , I finally sent back the 14x3" cleaner that Slummit sent me a
few
weeks back , as they sent me the flat base when I ordered the drop
base
.
Well , the Drop Base arrived today (SUM-239433) and I went to install
it
with the aid of the Edlebrock 1/2" spacer as recommended .
What they don't tell you is that when Slummit says dropped base ,
they
MEAN dropped base !
To get this thing to work , I would need a MINIMUM of a 3/4" spacer .
I could get it on there as it is with the 1/2" , but the upper
radiator
hose would be *seriously* squished . I mean , it would be to the
point
of the bolt closest to the firewall on the rear bracket of the A/C
compressor eventually (sooner rather than later) rubbing thru the
hose
and making me have a bad day .
I would have gotten the Edlebrock to begin with , but I actually
prefer
the clean , unspoiled look of the Slummit can . I was also going to
get
one of those 360 MAGNUM "Pie Plates" that they have in the MP catalog
and slap it on top for kind of a retro look .
Anyway , point is , this will just not do .
I am going to try and get a 3/4"spacer tomorrow and try again .
Another thing about the Slummit can is that although it has the
knock-outs for the PCV hose , it does not have the nipple (hehehehe)
to
go *in* the hole once they are knocked out .
Any suggestions ?
I wanna have this thing on there correctly before I leave for Moroso
on
Friday .
And please don't say "Just get a K&N FIPK and quit playin' with it ."
.
Thanks !!
Jack Hilton III
http://www.mindspring.com/~hemi/jbd1.html
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:44:35 -0500
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: RE: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
No difference as far as mother nature is concerned.
Tate
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris lang [SMTP:langcj@clarkson.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 9:11 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
they actually check somthing like that in georga? If they do i'm real sorry
that sucks. I'd like to know what the environmental impact is for having
somthing like that on your valve cover. Is there really a difference
between taking air in through a little breather vs the air cleaner??
Chris (I'm now very happy I live in NY) Lang
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jack Hilton III <HEMI@charter.net>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
>
>>Instead of the PCV hose why don't you get one of those crome push on valve
>>breathers i got one for like 4 bucks at western auto....
>
>
>Because the Enviro-Nazis would possibly frown upon that since it is
>considered an emissions control part .
>
>
>W . Jack Hilton III
>
>HEMI@charter.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 07:48:35 -0500
From: Joseph Dick <joe@selu.edu>
Subject: DML: Re: thanks
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have you guys checked out her e-mail address? wikdbytch@innocent.com
hmmmmm .verrry interesting.....
- ----------
> From: Jacqueline <wikdbytch@innocent.com>
> To: dakota-truck-digest@buffnet4.buffnet.net
> Subject: DML: thanks
> Date: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 7:05 PM
>
> aww...thanks for the welcome all.
> any more women on here?
>
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<font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">have you guys checked out her e-mail =
address? <font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>wikdbytch@innocent.com</u><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000"> hmmmmm .verrry interesting.....<font =
color=3D"#FF0000">----------> From: Jacqueline <<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>wikdbytch@innocent.com</u><font =
color=3D"#FF0000">>> To: <font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>dakota-truck-digest@buffnet4.buffnet.net</u><font =
color=3D"#FF0000">> Subject: DML: thanks<br>> Date: Tuesday, =
September 08, 1998 7:05 PM> <br>> aww...thanks for the welcome =
all.> any more women on here?<br>> </p>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></body></html>
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Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:15:32 -0400
From: Rader <rlr@rtp-bosch.com>
Subject: DML: Into the lion's maw...
Jacqueline wrote:
> aww...thanks for the welcome all.
> any more women on here?
You are welcome, Jacqueline. However, like most 'Net related forums, the
DML is overwhelmingly male. Yes, there are a few regular female posters
(don't yell at me, Ingrams ;), but there are enough arrested adolescent
hormonal
cases here to give any woman gearhead an interesting time. I have the
feeling
your 'wikdbytch' moniker is gonna get tested.
Hope you stick around a while,
Ron
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 08:38:12 -0500
From: "STRICKLAND, Tate" <tstricklan@shl.com>
Subject: RE: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
No big deal, but it's the other way around - that's the "intake" side
of the pcv system - at least according to the service manual. Since I
don't have it in front of me, I'm probably wrong, but I think that's
the way it goes, I think. Easy enough to tell - pull the hose off of
the air bonnet , give it a little gas and see if there's pressure or
vacuum.
Tate
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jack Hilton III [SMTP:HEMI@charter.net]
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 10:41 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Re: 14"FABM ......revisited
>between taking air in through a little breather vs the air cleaner??
>
The valve on the vale cover that is connected to the air cleaner
doesn't
take air into the valve cover , it re-circulates exhaust gasses that
are
expelled from the cylinders and into the oil back into the TB so they
can
be burned and not released into the atmosphere .
W . Jack Hilton III
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 09:40:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: sperduton@mail.dnb.com
Subject: DML: overhead shelf
Does anyonw know if anybody makes an overhead shelf for the 97-98 Dakotas
besides shelf it.
I would like one of the ones with the sunglass and coin holder type things
built in.
Thaks,
Nick
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
(__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek
and
(oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say, the
/-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be
an
/ | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message
was
* ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain, it
^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the world.
Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon-
(stei0302)
-
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 06:49:38 -0700
From: "Bridges, Bruce" <bbridges@alarismed.com>
Subject: DML: RE: R/T Toe In and welcome
Paul,
I have virtually the same truck in 98 format. (no ohead console or big
mirrors though). My truck also came complete with bad alignment, unblaanced
tires and a right front tire with a flat spot. The dealer put the alignment
right (Ive had it independently checked) But, I forgot to ask the shop what
the specs are. The flat spot was considered "marginal" to normal by the
tire shop and isnt worth hassling over (very slight vibration @ 85-95mph)
and its going away as I drive. My transmission is spotless with no leakage.
Even with the good alignment Im still seeing what I consider "abnormal" tire
wear in the form of feathering on the front tires. Then again, Ive been
doing a little abnormal driving too...
Welcome to the list, Have you registered your R/T at the R/T registry via
Tim May??
Bruce K Bridges
98 R/T CC deep amethyst
- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul & Rebecca Iannazzo [mailto:beer-brewer@email.msn.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 1998 8:12 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: DML: R/T Transmission Leak and Toe In
I've been lurking on the list for two weeks...waiting. After waiting
exactly (only) one month, my Amethyst Pearl R/T CC arrived. She's a beaut.
A/C, HD service, towing, power windows/locks, alarm, overhead console, CD,
6X9 mirrors (they're kinda big but needed to see around the trailer--I think
I can see the Earth's curvature). Of course, as soon as I got it home
(total mileage of 14), I had it up on four stands and I was looking up at
all the goodies. Is that drive shaft huge or what? Then I saw it--a drop
of trans fluid at the rear seal. Wiped it clean and 10 miles later it was
back. The dealer's gonna take care of it Thursday.
Anyone with an R/T or other Dak have toe in problems? Mine is 30 feet in
per mile by a drive over gauge and 0.55 degrees in by infrared alingment
rack. Does anyone know what specs the front end is supposed to be? Even
though the rack had all the computer doodads, it didn't have 98 or 99 Dak
specs.
Happy to be here. Paul
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:53:19 -0400
From: Rader <rlr@rtp-bosch.com>
Subject: Re: DML: Scan Tool Buy
> I picked up the
> ball and wrote to the Mfg. to see about a group rate, and got an
> answer.
> OBDTool will work on 96 and up Chrysler and foreign vehicles.
Damn! OBD-II only?
Sheeit, back to the drawing board...
Ron "'95" Rader
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 09 Sep 1998 09:59:18 -0400
From: Thomas Vacchino <tommyv@thecia.net>
Subject: Re: DML: overhead shelf
I assume by "shelf" you mean a console? If so JC WHITNEY has one in the
Truck Accesorries
Catalog.
"psychonaut"
sperduton@mail.dnb.com wrote:
> Does anyonw know if anybody makes an overhead shelf for the 97-98 Dakotas
besides shelf it.
> I would like one of the ones with the sunglass and coin holder type things
built in.
>
> Thaks,
> Nick
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
> (__) ,---------. NOTE: The preceding message was sent via Jaek
and
> (oo) | :\/: _ _ \ Jon's WWW mail cow gateway. That is to say,
the
> /-------\/_/ : :: :: : ) person who sent this message could in fact be
an
> / | MAIL|| \_ ' '`-'`-'/ anonymous prankster. Even though this message
was
> * ||"" || \__________/ mailed to you from the cs.fredonia.edu domain,
it
> ^^ ^^ could have been generated by anyone in the
world.
> Please keep this in mind. Thank you! --Jaek (smit2204) and -Jon-
(stei0302)
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 9 Sep 1998 07:21:32 -0700
From: "Bridges, Bruce" <bbridges@alarismed.com>
Subject: RE: DML: Scan Tool Buy
DML,
I poked into the diacom website to see about their scan tool. The diacom +
system is good for 91-99 chrysler products (go figure) And has a real time
graphing capability with up to 30 parameters displayed at one time... Its a
little pricey at 600+ bucks. No capability to write to the EMC and no
future plans for that (can you say federally regulated...) Does Scan Tool
have graphng capability? Ive got a 100K mile warranty (dont ask) so I
probably wont "need" this thing for a while so it seems expensive for a
"toy"...
On another topic, workin on a New Hand prototype after getting laughed at
with the Vulcan model. Its called Mojo Hand... May be on to something
here...flows 14% better after porting and seems to open doors that were
previously closed...but I keep getting this purple fog in the cab when I use
it...
BKB
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rader [mailto:rlr@rtp-bosch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 1998 6:53 AM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: Re: DML: Scan Tool Buy
> I picked up the
> ball and wrote to the Mfg. to see about a group rate, and got an
> answer.
> OBDTool will work on 96 and up Chrysler and foreign vehicles.
Damn! OBD-II only?
Sheeit, back to the drawing board...
Ron "'95" Rader
------------------------------
End of DML Digest V3 #1260
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