When I put the Lakewoods on my 96, I had to make a 1/2" shim for the
rear Ubolt. Not too hard to do. I bought a 3 foot piece of stock from
a local company that buys all the overruns from the aircraft industry
here in KS. The metal cost about $2, and the cuting wheels about $15
(tough stuff to cut). Anyway I loosly bolted them on, then shoved the
shim aginst the back of the axle plate and tightened them up. Made
them almost perfectly level. Then I cut the snubbers so they were 1/2"
from the leaf spring.
Hope this helps.
---TXSTIM@aol.com wrote:
>
> I remember about a month or two ago that there was a good thread
going about
> installing Lakewood traction bars. I can see the messages when I
search the
> archives, but can't pull in the messages to read them. What
difficulties are
> encountered when installing the bars? Any tips for setting the bars
(fore and
> aft, or distance from spring to snubber)?
>
> Are these the best choice? A few years back, I had a 340 Dart, and
the guy on
> the MP tech line told me to stay away from traction bars, because
I'd break
> parts. He suggested a pinion snubber instead. Unfortunately a
pinion snubber
> ain't gonna work on a truck. Is there a better way to stop wheel
hop?
>
==
George J Hooper
99 R/T, regular cab, Deep Amethyst
All the toys, except pwr seats.
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