I disagree. That may be so on a rear wheel drive Challenger or a Duster but
not on a 4x4 Dakota. Your putting allot more tension on the lower ball
joints. Also by cranking it up 2", your drastically changing the angle of
the CV axles. Changing the angle by a few degrees will increase wear and
reduce the life of the component.
In the four years since cranking up my torsion bars, I have observed that
ball joints & CV boots don't last as long. I've changed the CV boots twice
and the lower ball joints once since I cranked it. Both were done shortly
before I lifted the truck. That's not normal wear.
Walter Felix
88½ Dakota Sport 4x4
WWW.GeoCities.Com/~Walter_Felix
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Tom <tigers@bserv.com>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 4:45 PM
Subject: Re: DML: Torsion Bars?
>Seems, if I remember correctly, that adjusting
>the torsions bars (lift/lower) about 2" would
>not put too much stress on the components or
>put things too much out of whack.
>
>
>Bob
>Burlington, Ontario, Canada
>
>Current: 97 CC Sport,5.2L,3.55SG auto.,4x2,Gibson dual,KN
> 96 Grand Caravan ES,3.3L
> 85 Shelby Intercooled Turbo Charger,2.2L,4-spd man.
> 78 customized B100 with '69 340-4bbl,3-spd auto.
> 70 Challenger,383-4bbl,slap-stik auto.,3.23SG
>Past: 71 Road Runner,340-4bbl,3-spd slap-stik auto.,3.23SG
> 70 Duster 340-4bbl,3-spd auto.,3.23 SG
>
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