-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Flummer <Mustang@netunlimited.net>
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Tuesday, November 10, 1998 10:18 AM
Subject: Re: DML: BUMP STEER was: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Gary-Todd)
>Gary, I didn't get a lot of bumpsteer from the drop. It's only bad at high
>speed sharp turns on rough pavement and it's not that bad if you know what
>to expect.
>
>Todd
>www.netunlimited.net/~mustang/
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
>To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 4:30 PM
>Subject: Re: DML: BUMP STEER was: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Gary-Todd)
>
>
>>Gary Pinkley wrote:
>>>
>>> The Western chassis dropped A-Arm does not correct
>>> bump steer.
>>>
>>> Dakotas have bad bump steer when lowered beyond
>>> 2". This is caused by the angle of the steering tie rods
>>> with respect to the rack. The factory designs steering
>>> geometry to cause slight understeer. In this condition,
>>> the tie rods point slighly downward from the rack at ride
>>> height. This allows the wheels to point slightly outward
>>> during cornering. Subjective testing by automakers has
>>> shown that normal drivers feel more comfortable with
>>> slight understeer versus oversteer. Slight understeer can
>>> be corrected by simply lifting off the throttle on a rear wheel
>>> drive vehicle. This is a natural reaction when your car is
>>> pushing towards a guard rail. Lowering beyond 2" on a Dak
>>> angles the tie rod upwards. This gives oversteer, i.e. the
>>> truck's steering seems to be overly sensitive and twitchy
>>> when cornering. Also if you encounter a bump during that
>>> corner, the truck will seem to dart to the inside, seeming
>>> to change lanes without warning.
>>>
>>> As I stated above, the dropped A-Arm DOES NOT correct
>>> bump steer. The only way to correct bump steer on a lowered
>>> Dak is to change the angle of the steering tie rod. The dropped
>>> a-arm only lowers the spring pocket, changing the pre-load on
>>> the spring, allowing the vehicle to sit lower. Only by relocating
>>> either the rack (can't be done without major surgery to the Dak)
>>> or by lowering the outer tie rod ball joint can you return your Dak
>>> to the factory geometry. Changing the outer tie rod location can
>>> be accomplished in several ways, all of which require increasing
>>> the rim diameter above the factory 15" size. You can cast a new
>>> spindle which has it's steering arm lower than stock, you can try
>>> to put spacers between the tie rod and the spindle, or install a new
>>> tie rod end that has a longer stud. Looking at the factory spindle
>>> with 15" rims, you will see that there is no room to play with the
>>> vertical height of the ball joint.
>>>
>>> Gary Pinkley
>>> 97 Reg Cab V-6 5 spd
>>> lowered monochrome red
>>> 255/50-17 BFG Comp T/A ZR4
>>> Budnik 17x8 wheels
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Bob Nichols <bnich@bellatlantic.net>
>>> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>>> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 5:33 AM
>>> Subject: Re: DML: Pictures of Lowered Dak's (Vince -Scott)
>>>
>>> >Vincent Heckathorn wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Bob;
>>> >> I have lowered mine 1.75" in front and 2" in the rear
>>> >> I you go more than 2" in the front you won't have very much
suspension
>>> >> travel.
>>> >> I had to replace the suspension bumpers on the front so that it would
>'t
>>> >> bottom out.
>>> >> Also more than 2" you will get some bump steer.
>>> >> I think that 2" in front and 3" in the rear is all that you will
>want.
>>> >>
>>> >> FWIW
>>> >>
>>> >> Colin H.
>>> >>
>>> >> Bob Nichols wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> > Getin close to buying the Western Chassis Kit, still unsure if I
>want
>>> to
>>> >> > go 2/4 or 3/5. I've seen Todd's pictures of his 3/5 (very nice).
>Does
>>> >> > any body have any pictures of a 2/4?? I realize if I go for the
2/4,
>I
>>> >> > can get another inch in the rear with blocks, what can I do (short
>of
>>> >> > changing the springs) to get that extra inch in the front? Thanx
Bob
>>> >
>>> >Vince, My understanding on this is: If you use springs alone to drop
the
>>> >front, yes you'll get bump steer, however if you use the Westen Chassis
>>> >kit with the new A-Frames you won't have this problem. Bob
>>> >
>>
>>Hey Gary, Thanks for the info, I guess I was mis-informed. The more I
>>talk about this, the more confused I get. I certainly don't want to make
>>my Dak harder to handle. I also like the "rake" of my truck, looks a
>>little race car like. But hate the huge empty wheel wells. Maybe if
>>I go 2/2 it will be lower but still have the rake. Like I said in
>>another post I think Todds 3/5 looks very nice. If the A arms don't
>>correct the bump steer, why go thru all that trouble? Seems like 2"
>>springs would be alot easier, no? Decisions, Decisions. Todd you there??
>>Do you get that Bump Steer? Thanx Gary
>>
>
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