Seems like you're spending way too much time and effort on plug gap - the
only guys I know that do that are hardcore racers. Put an MSD6A ignition on
there - if you still have problems, then there is something SERIOUSLY wrong
somewhere between the distributor, coil and wires. I presume you've tried
different plugs (every once in a while some bad ones get thru). With MSD
you can generally run 0.050" gap (narrowest gap between elbow and center
electrode).
I have heard from a coupla sources that the distributor is sometimes a
little off-center on the 318's - just something else to keep in mind.......
-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Jennings <jason@spray-tech.com>
To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net' <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
Date: Monday, February 15, 1999 1:46 PM
Subject: RE: Re[2]: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
>I will check the distributor. Last time I messed with them I had to
>pull a bit harder on the wires. Ok, that is basically how I was taught
>to gap. The factory plugs were snug past the .040 mark. The only
>reason I even checked the factory plugs was to get an idea where my NGK
>plugs should be. The NGK plugs were gapped all but one perfectly to
>.040. None of the champion stock plugs were even close to .040. Nope,
>no ignition systems. I am trying to tune my baby through sheer money on
>engine performance parts and testing, zero juice, supercharging, and
>ignitions systems. I suppose I will just test and tune at the track
>every chance I have. I am going to invest in a higher quality gapping
>tool. Any suggestions on what style, brand, type, or whatever I should
>look for in a gapping tool????
>
>
>
>Jason
>2/15/99 2:24 PM
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu [SMTP:fawcett@uism.bu.edu]
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 1999 11:55 AM
> To: DAKOTA-TRUCK@buffnet.net
> Subject: Re[2]: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
>
> This is a wicked rough rendering of a spark plug, but the gap
>you are
> measuring is the distance between the ground electrode (the
>elbow looking
> thing that comes off the side of the plug) and the center
>electrode (the
> round thing in the middle of the plug). Slide your gapper
>between the
> two... It should be snug as in some resistance being felt as
>the gap tool
> slides between the two metal pieces.
>
>
> -------- --
> | | = .040in or 1.01mm
> | |-| --
> | |--| |--|
> | | |
> |-------------|
> |-------------|
> |-------------|
>
>
> Do you have an after-market ignition system that would allow for
>a larger gap??
> Did the engine run rough with the stock plugs.
>
> If the answer is no to both I'd re-gap to the factory spec. of
>.040 and check my
> wires to make sure I didn't cross two of 'em. Also check the
>fit of the wires
> at the distributor and coil... I noticed I loosened one up on
>the distributor
> when I was fiddling with the them.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Tom
>
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
>_________________________________
> Subject: RE: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
> Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
> Date: 2/15/99 10:38 AM
>
>
> I suppose it was warm up on the fuel thing. The idol is rough,
>and
> drives like the pistons are not firing at all have the time....
>I
> almost want to say the gap is too small for the type of spark
>being
> delivered???? How can I tell if the plugs are gapped to far
>out??? Is
> there a solid test to determine if the gapping is ideal, too far
>out, or
> to close in.... I found the small gap to give one rough of a
>mother
> ride.... First time burnt one of my plugs a little bit....
>
>
>
> Jason
> 2/15/99 10:41 AM
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fawcett@uism.bu.edu
>[SMTP:fawcett@uism.bu.edu]
> Sent: Monday, February 15, 1999 9:56 AM
> To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> Subject: Re: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
>
> Hmmmmm... I don't understand why your having a problem.
>My
> Champion truck
> plugs are dead on at .040 and she idles smooth as
>butter. It's
> a tiny
> little 318, but that shouldn't make a difference, should
>it?
>
> About the fuel on the plugs though, I think that is
>normal if
> the engine
> was cold when you fired her up. I don't know if they
>even call
> it a choke
> on these new fangled engines, but there is sh*t load of
>fuel
> being pumped
> into the motor during warm-up... Now if your plugs are
>still
> wet after
> reaching operating temp., then you've got a real
>problem.
>
> Help me out here guys if I'm off the mark, but this is
>what I
> found out
> when I went through my Bosch Platinum +4 fiasco!
>
> Tom
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
> _________________________________
> Subject: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
> Author: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net> at smtpout
> Date: 2/15/99 9:12 AM
>
>
> I am still trying to find a good gapping for my NGK
>plugs. My
> little
> R/T really hates the .040 gap with these plugs. I have
>checked
> the
> Champion stock numbers. Yep, it has a 4 at the end of
>it. I
> checked
> the gapping on a couple. Nope it is not .040.... When
>ever I
> close in
> on the .040 recommendation it becomes a rough ride,
>shoot rough
> idol. I
> start 'er up, idol a sec. Pull the plugs, and bingo....
>Left
> over fuel
> mix all over the electrodes.... Maybe I need a gapping
>101
> refresher
> course.... I am gapping based on the center point of
>the metal
> hook
> looking part. Or I suppose you could say the electrode
>part.
> They are
> roughly the same on these NGK plugs. I currently have
>them
> gapped at
> about .043 on the snug.... This brings the metal loop
>side
> about flush
> with the .045 marker on my gapper. This has been the
>biggest
> darn pain
> so far, yep worse than the radiator hose. BTW, what Lug
>Nut
> designed
> one of the A/C lines to pass right by the passenger side
> plugs.... Oh
> and don't over look those wiring harnesses over there
>too... My
> favorite is still the driver side metal shield looking
>things
> below the
> header area. Hmm yummy, I love that 40 degree weather
>pain I
> get from
> slamming into sharp cold metal monsters.... Thanks....
>
>
>
> Jason
> 2/15/99 9:10 AM
>
>
>
>
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