yeah, the plug wires are tough as hell to put on and off. I have never
had such a hard time with plugs and wires. It took me way too long to
pull the factory plugs (thanks gorilla lug nut impact wrench jockey).
The plug wires just kill me every time. I will spend yet another
weekend goofing off with my plugs alone. I'm going to buy the little
knife looking gap tool. I forget the name, but it seems to look
reliable. The other styles make me nervous.
Jason
2/16/99 1:40 PM
-----Original Message-----
From: brian duffey [SMTP:brian.duffey@intelsat.int]
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 1:10 PM
To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
Subject: re: DML: Spark Plugs Once Again
Jason,
I'd suggest maybe trying some other brands of plugs.
I think the factory rec. gap on the R/T is .040 ?
I took advantage of a day off yesterday and put new Cap/Rotor on
my '95/318,
and then replaced the Bosch Platinums (not the +4s), with new
Champ Truck
Plugs. The Bosch's had a fair amount of deposits on most of them
(only in
for about 3-5000 miles), so I may have a leaking gasket as it
looked like
excess oil burnt onto the threads and electrode. But that could
be from the
Cap/Rotor not giving me a good spark to completely burn the fuel
mixture.
I checked all the Champions fresh outta the box and they were
all dead on at
.040 gap. I have an MSD 6AL and Blaster Coil with MSD wires, so
I gapped the
plugs out to .045. Haven't driven too much yet, so the Comp is
still
adjusting, but the idle and accel are much smoother now. This
too I could
attribute as much to the new cap/rotor since the rotor was
pretty bad off.
Try taking the gap in a little (most of the 5.2L are .035
factory spec). If
you have a problem in the system somewhere, you may not be
getting enough
juice to the electrode to get a good spark across the gap.
Closing it up
some may help? (Hey, its just a theory!).
As for the heat shields on the plugs, YES - Man, I was cursing
the designer
who came up with those! At least they made them removable
though. I put mine
back on yesterday when doing the plugs, but they may be gone
soon!
I saw in my Summit catalog last night that they have boot covers
(rated to
2000F?) to go over the plug boots. I may get some of these, and
just pull
the heat shields & see how the covers work (and look).
Good luck with your problem - check your wires too, if you were
pulling on
them hard you may have pulled out a crimp so you're not getting
the full
voltage to the plugs.
Later,
Duff
'95 SLT 4x4 CC 318 4spd/OD - 3.55 LSD
MSD 6AL - MSD Blaster Coil
MSD 8.5 wires - K&N FIPK - F&B Stage I TBI
-------------
Original Text
From JASON@SMTPGATE (Jason Jennings) {jason@spray-tech.com}, on
15/02/1999
9:12 AM:
To: DAKOTA-T@SMTPGATE ("'DML'") {dakota-truck@buffnet.net}
I am still trying to find a good gapping for my NGK plugs. My
little
R/T really hates the .040 gap with these plugs. I have checked
the
Champion stock numbers. Yep, it has a 4 at the end of it. I
checked
the gapping on a couple. Nope it is not .040.... When ever I
close in
on the .040 recommendation it becomes a rough ride, shoot rough
idol. I
start 'er up, idol a sec. Pull the plugs, and bingo.... Left
over fuel
mix all over the electrodes.... Maybe I need a gapping 101
refresher
course.... I am gapping based on the center point of the metal
hook
looking part. Or I suppose you could say the electrode part.
They are
roughly the same on these NGK plugs. I currently have them
gapped at
about .043 on the snug.... This brings the metal loop side
about flush
with the .045 marker on my gapper. This has been the biggest
darn pain
so far, yep worse than the radiator hose. BTW, what Lug Nut
designed
one of the A/C lines to pass right by the passenger side
plugs.... Oh
and don't over look those wiring harnesses over there too... My
favorite is still the driver side metal shield looking things
below the
header area. Hmm yummy, I love that 40 degree weather pain I
get from
slamming into sharp cold metal monsters.... Thanks....
Jason
2/15/99 9:10 AM
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