Bernd D. Ratsch wrote:
>
> Alright...I broke down again and decided to convert my '97 Dak from Viscous
> to Electric Cooling.
>
> I've already tried it (severely) in rush hour traffic (Austin people should
> know about Mopac direction Round Rock) and it didn't even come close to the
> 210 mark on the temp gauge. Here's the setup and installation notes:
>
> Hayden 16" Electric Fan ("Pusher"): Part# 3710
> Hayden Adjustable Fan Control (160-210): Part# 3647
> About 24 inches of 14ga. RED wire (For ACC line into cab)
> Small Saw, Shears, Makita, whatever...something to cut the Plastic on the
> Fan Shroud
>
> The removal of the fan clutch was a @#$@! considering I didn't have a 34mm
> wrench...had to use a screw driver and a very BIG crescent wrench. (Worked
> fine though...) Since the fan is a "Push" style and not a "Pull", I
> contacted Hayden and found out that you can reverse the polarity without any
> problems (also made sure it doesn't affect the Fan Control Relay).
>
> (1) Back off two screws on the Water Pump Pulley (just about 1/2 inch) for a
> pry bar to hold it while you undo the Fan Clutch Nut. (Turn Counter
> Clockwise)
> (2) Unscrew all four bolts holding the Fan Shroud (10mm)
> (3) Move the Fan Shroud forward enough to allow you to finish unscrewing the
> Fan/Clutch assembly and pull it out of the truck.
> (4) Remove the Fan Shroud from the Truck
> (5) Draw an imaginary line from the center of the waterpump to the radiator
> (This is where the center of the fan motor should sit)
> (6) Remove the top radiator mounting screws and move the radiator forward
> enough to get your hands/arm down into the area.
> (6) Attach the Hayden Fan onto the radiator with the supplied straps (I
> modified mine to attach the fan with 6 straps...not the supplied 4)
> (7) Put the radiator back into place and replace/tighten the screws back
> down
> (8) There is a great ground location next to the radiator (looking down from
> the top, it's on the right hand side) where you can attach the Ground Wire
> from the Fan. (Normally it's Black but since I reversed the polarity, I used
> the Blue.) - It requires a 13mm socket to get to it.
> (9) Remove the battery and bolt the Fan Control Relay to the small plate
> next to (and underneath) the Upper Radiator Hose. (I removed the battery
> since the Makita wouldn't fit in the 3" space) Use Self-Drilling Sheet
> Metal Screws.
> (10) Connect the Orange and Blue wires from the Relay to the Positive lead
> from the Fan and run the wire(s) underneath the shroud mounting plate.
> (11) Connect the Green wire from the Relay to the Blue/Yellow Stripe wire on
> the A/C Clutch Switch (It's right behind the connector laying on the
> Driver-Side of the engine right in the middle of the engine...strip away
> about 1/2" of the factory tape to get enough wire for the wire clamp.)
> (12) Run the yellow wire along the inside of the Driver-Side Fender all the
> way into the cab (There's a rubber grommet where you can punch a small hole
> and run the wire into the Cab) and put a spade connector on the end.
> (13) Open your Fuse Panel and find the Accessory plug (or any open connector
> that ONLY powers up when the engine is ON). Put the yellow wire into that
> plug. (I had to use some extra wire since the initial length wasn't long
> enough. This is where the RED wire is used)
> (14) Connect the Red wire from the Relay to the Left Terminal underneath the
> outside Relay Box (Next to the battery)
> (15) Connect the Black Wire from the Relay to the Neg. Battery Post.
> (16) Insert the Temp Sensor from the Relay into the radiator, right next to
> the Upper Radiator Hose. (This give the best reading) You can use the
> supplied foam pads but I used just a small dab of Clear Silicon on both
> sides to keep it from falling out.
> (17) Don't forget to tighten the Water Pump bolts before going any farther.
> (I did this late last night and forgot...I purchased a new belt this
> morning...OOPS!)
>
> Here's where I cut the bottom of the Fan Shroud to allow me to easily slip
> it back into place. Cut a 3"x8" "Cutout" on the bottom "Radiator Side" of
> the fan shroud (Center it and the 9" is lengthwise). Cut a 2"x5" "Cutout"
> on the bottom of the Fan Shroud on the opposite side where the Water Pump
> pulley will touch on installation. You don't have to do this but it made it
> much easier to reinstall the shroud.
>
> (18) Reinstall the Fan Shroud (and if you did it right, the Electric Fan
> will be perfectly centered in the opening).
> (19) Now this depends on the Thermostat that you have installed in your
> truck. (I have a 180 so I set the Relay to turn the fan on at about
> 190-195) Turn the little screw on the relay (with the screw on the right
> side) Counter Clockwise until it stops. Then, back it off about 3 notches
> (they're on the outer rim).
> (20) Reinstall the battery and your all set.
>
> Please keep in mind that my Dak has a "mildly modified" V6...not a V8 and
> this fan may not be enough for the "Big Boys"...(You're welcome R/T owners)
> :) I haven't tested it with towing since I don't have anything really big to
> tow...at this time.
>
> I'll have some pictures up later on next week on my site for you to see the
> finish installation.
>
> Bernd D. Ratsch
> Pflugerville, TX
> bernd@texas.net
> http://lonestar.texas.net/~bernd
> 1997 Dakota SLT-CC (3.9L)
> License Plate Frame: "Don't Follow Me...I'm Trolling for Toyota's"
> Song for the Day: "Gonna buy me a Dodge Truck and blow those Fords off the
> road....."
Bernd, Nice directions, So does it run any better? Bob
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:12:45 EDT