Alright...I broke down again and decided to convert my '97 Dak from Viscous
to Electric Cooling.
I've already tried it (severely) in rush hour traffic (Austin people should
know about Mopac direction Round Rock) and it didn't even come close to the
210 mark on the temp gauge. Here's the setup and installation notes:
Hayden 16" Electric Fan ("Pusher"): Part# 3710
Hayden Adjustable Fan Control (160-210): Part# 3647
About 24 inches of 14ga. RED wire (For ACC line into cab)
Small Saw, Shears, Makita, whatever...something to cut the Plastic on the
Fan Shroud
The removal of the fan clutch was a @#$@! considering I didn't have a 34mm
wrench...had to use a screw driver and a very BIG crescent wrench. (Worked
fine though...) Since the fan is a "Push" style and not a "Pull", I
contacted Hayden and found out that you can reverse the polarity without any
problems (also made sure it doesn't affect the Fan Control Relay).
(1) Back off two screws on the Water Pump Pulley (just about 1/2 inch) for a
pry bar to hold it while you undo the Fan Clutch Nut. (Turn Counter
Clockwise)
(2) Unscrew all four bolts holding the Fan Shroud (10mm)
(3) Move the Fan Shroud forward enough to allow you to finish unscrewing the
Fan/Clutch assembly and pull it out of the truck.
(4) Remove the Fan Shroud from the Truck
(5) Draw an imaginary line from the center of the waterpump to the radiator
(This is where the center of the fan motor should sit)
(6) Remove the top radiator mounting screws and move the radiator forward
enough to get your hands/arm down into the area.
(6) Attach the Hayden Fan onto the radiator with the supplied straps (I
modified mine to attach the fan with 6 straps...not the supplied 4)
(7) Put the radiator back into place and replace/tighten the screws back
down
(8) There is a great ground location next to the radiator (looking down from
the top, it's on the right hand side) where you can attach the Ground Wire
from the Fan. (Normally it's Black but since I reversed the polarity, I used
the Blue.) - It requires a 13mm socket to get to it.
(9) Remove the battery and bolt the Fan Control Relay to the small plate
next to (and underneath) the Upper Radiator Hose. (I removed the battery
since the Makita wouldn't fit in the 3" space) Use Self-Drilling Sheet
Metal Screws.
(10) Connect the Orange and Blue wires from the Relay to the Positive lead
from the Fan and run the wire(s) underneath the shroud mounting plate.
(11) Connect the Green wire from the Relay to the Blue/Yellow Stripe wire on
the A/C Clutch Switch (It's right behind the connector laying on the
Driver-Side of the engine right in the middle of the engine...strip away
about 1/2" of the factory tape to get enough wire for the wire clamp.)
(12) Run the yellow wire along the inside of the Driver-Side Fender all the
way into the cab (There's a rubber grommet where you can punch a small hole
and run the wire into the Cab) and put a spade connector on the end.
(13) Open your Fuse Panel and find the Accessory plug (or any open connector
that ONLY powers up when the engine is ON). Put the yellow wire into that
plug. (I had to use some extra wire since the initial length wasn't long
enough. This is where the RED wire is used)
(14) Connect the Red wire from the Relay to the Left Terminal underneath the
outside Relay Box (Next to the battery)
(15) Connect the Black Wire from the Relay to the Neg. Battery Post.
(16) Insert the Temp Sensor from the Relay into the radiator, right next to
the Upper Radiator Hose. (This give the best reading) You can use the
supplied foam pads but I used just a small dab of Clear Silicon on both
sides to keep it from falling out.
(17) Don't forget to tighten the Water Pump bolts before going any farther.
(I did this late last night and forgot...I purchased a new belt this
morning...OOPS!)
Here's where I cut the bottom of the Fan Shroud to allow me to easily slip
it back into place. Cut a 3"x8" "Cutout" on the bottom "Radiator Side" of
the fan shroud (Center it and the 9" is lengthwise). Cut a 2"x5" "Cutout"
on the bottom of the Fan Shroud on the opposite side where the Water Pump
pulley will touch on installation. You don't have to do this but it made it
much easier to reinstall the shroud.
(18) Reinstall the Fan Shroud (and if you did it right, the Electric Fan
will be perfectly centered in the opening).
(19) Now this depends on the Thermostat that you have installed in your
truck. (I have a 180 so I set the Relay to turn the fan on at about
190-195) Turn the little screw on the relay (with the screw on the right
side) Counter Clockwise until it stops. Then, back it off about 3 notches
(they're on the outer rim).
(20) Reinstall the battery and your all set.
Please keep in mind that my Dak has a "mildly modified" V6...not a V8 and
this fan may not be enough for the "Big Boys"...(You're welcome R/T owners)
:) I haven't tested it with towing since I don't have anything really big to
tow...at this time.
I'll have some pictures up later on next week on my site for you to see the
finish installation.
Bernd D. Ratsch
Pflugerville, TX
bernd@texas.net
http://lonestar.texas.net/~bernd
1997 Dakota SLT-CC (3.9L)
License Plate Frame: "Don't Follow Me...I'm Trolling for Toyota's"
Song for the Day: "Gonna buy me a Dodge Truck and blow those Fords off the
road....."
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