At 10:38 AM 8/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
>i wanted to get an anti-rust undercoating put on my '94, like ziebart or
>something akin to that. my girlfriends ranger (bought before we were
>dating, not my fault), is pretty slimy where the coating is. i'm wondering
>if the undercoating is going to make it harder to work on, slippery, mucky,
>annoying etc.. i'm putting a lift on it this weekend and plan on headers
>and exhaust when the money roles in. so i need to get the coating done
>before i put those on, if at all, so my new parts don't get slimed.
>coating, Y/N? thanks in advance.
>-jay
As far as I know, all undercoating substances are oil-based in some manner
so your new parts will get 'slimed' if you rustproof there.
I've been using a product called Krown Rust on my vehicles since '86. It
creeps
into spaces that normal rustproofing/oiling cannot get to and where rust
usually
starts because moisture is trapped there. The best part with a product like
this is that you can wash it away in a few days (allows time for it to work
into
the difficult places). It requires that a vehicle be re-shot on a annual
basis
but it's the only sure way to fight rust.
I use a bedliner for protection against dents in the bed's walls. As everyone
knows, a bedliner slides and rubs the paint away. When I take the truck
in for its annual shot, I remove the liner and have them shoot the inside of
the bed ... no surface rust or rusting in the bed joints. I also wash out
the engine bay after a few days ... the rustproofing material has done its
creeping by then and the regular dirt/oil accumulation from driving has been
kept to a minimal. Best proof is the '86 Mazda B2000 pu that I owned. My son
now has it. Not a spot of rust on it and the Mazda was known for being a rust
bucket, especially in the bed area.
Rust Check is another similar product.
I don't know if either product is available in the States.
Bob
Burlington, Ontario
'97 CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.55, auto., 4x2, flame red
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