Ahhh, this question takes me back to '95 when I bought my DAK.
I remember sitting there listening to the sales-puke drone on about how the
DAKs come with such great rust proofing, and the frames are hot dipped and
yadda, yadda, yadda.
Then, while there doing the 'paperwork' (ie: letting you stew for a while)
some hot little blond aftermarket sales babe comes over to sell me ....
Undercoating!
Sorry sweetie, don't care how much cleavage you're showing... I'm sure as
hell not buying anything 'aftermarket' from the dealer... especially with
the great DAK rustproofing your salesman already explained.
Duff
'95 SLT 4x4 CC 318 4spd/OD - 3.55 LSD
MSD 6AL - MSD Blaster Coil
MSD 8.5 wires - K&N FIPK - F&B Stage I TBI
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mooberry, J [mailto:j.mooberry@lmco.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 4:23 PM
> To: 'dakota-truck@buffnet.net'
> Subject: RE: DML: Undercoating
>
>
> Thanks. I'll look into it. -Jay
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Bob Tom [SMTP:tigers@bserv.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 26, 1999 11:53 AM
> > To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
> > Subject: Re: DML: Undercoating
> >
> > At 10:38 AM 8/26/99 -0400, you wrote:
> > >i wanted to get an anti-rust undercoating put on my '94,
> like ziebart or
> > >something akin to that. my girlfriends ranger (bought
> before we were
> > >dating, not my fault), is pretty slimy where the coating is. i'm
> > wondering
> > >if the undercoating is going to make it harder to work on,
> slippery,
> > mucky,
> > >annoying etc.. i'm putting a lift on it this weekend and
> plan on headers
> > >and exhaust when the money roles in. so i need to get the
> coating done
> > >before i put those on, if at all, so my new parts don't
> get slimed.
> > >coating, Y/N? thanks in advance.
> > >-jay
> >
> > As far as I know, all undercoating substances are oil-based
> in some manner
> > so your new parts will get 'slimed' if you rustproof there.
> >
> > I've been using a product called Krown Rust on my vehicles
> since '86. It
> > creeps
> > into spaces that normal rustproofing/oiling cannot get to
> and where rust
> > usually
> > starts because moisture is trapped there. The best part
> with a product
> > like
> > this is that you can wash it away in a few days (allows
> time for it to
> > work
> > into
> > the difficult places). It requires that a vehicle be
> re-shot on a annual
> > basis
> > but it's the only sure way to fight rust.
> >
> > I use a bedliner for protection against dents in the bed's
> walls. As
> > everyone
> > knows, a bedliner slides and rubs the paint away. When I
> take the truck
> > in for its annual shot, I remove the liner and have them
> shoot the inside
> > of
> > the bed ... no surface rust or rusting in the bed joints.
> I also wash out
> > the engine bay after a few days ... the rustproofing
> material has done its
> > creeping by then and the regular dirt/oil accumulation from
> driving has
> > been
> > kept to a minimal. Best proof is the '86 Mazda B2000 pu
> that I owned. My
> > son
> > now has it. Not a spot of rust on it and the Mazda was
> known for being a
> > rust
> > bucket, especially in the bed area.
> >
> > Rust Check is another similar product.
> >
> > I don't know if either product is available in the States.
> >
> > Bob
> > Burlington, Ontario
> >
> > '97 CC Sport, 5.2L, 3.55, auto., 4x2, flame red
>
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