RE: (no subject)

From: Hoegen (hoegen@kersur.net)
Date: Sun Oct 03 1999 - 22:22:03 EDT


I bought all the parts at Home Depot.The black PVC or ABS plastic was the
3"o.d. I actually took my air hat into the store to check for the right fit.
The long piece was about 1'. On one end I attached the K&N cone filter, and
the other a 45 degree PVC connecter. To attach this assembly to the stock TB
cover, I used a 2-clamp hose connector (the type that comes with a rubber
boot already installed. Before attaching, I placed some silicone sealant
around the outside of the air hat (due to the small ridges which surround
the end). In this way I got a good seal when the assembly was tightened.

By the way, the PVC and AIR HAT were painted with high temp flat black paint
so that the pieces would match in both color and texture. I wanted it to
LOOK stock to the uninformed eye ;-)(the Black PVC or ABS plastic has a
glossy look which doesn't match the flat black coating of the stock air
hat).

The part number for the K&N filter was RU-3550, it is a 6" cone with a 3"
boot (the part which goes over the PVC).

I also made a small bracket from a piece of 1/4" metal, about 8" long. I
bent this into a "Z" shape (1.5" on both ends) and used it as a support
under the PVC (I drilled a hole in one end and placed it on one of the
screws that were already installed in the wheel well (the one that held the
old airbox). I simply used a bolt to secure it. Note: A small piece of heat
resistant rubber should be placed between this metal bracket and the spot
where it touched the PVC, otherwise the metal will "melt into" the PVC. No
drilling was necessary as I simply slid the other end of the bracket under a
hose clamp which went around the PVC (this clamp was already black and came
with the K&N filter, how useful! ;-)) This is how it stays attached to the
PVC. You should place a small piece of high temp rubber between the metal
and the PVC tubing to prevent the metal from melting or rubbing away the PVC
at that spot.

Don't forget to use the PVC sealant to attach the two pieces of PVC
together. Very little is needed so I only bought the smallest bottle they
had.

The filter was the most expensive part, costing around $30. The other parts
totaled about $20 - not bad at all!! Especially when compared with the $250+
you would need to spend to get a similar set-up.

I've been meaning to update my site to place the instructions....maybe this
week?? Meanwhile here are some links to help:

INSTRUCTIONS: STOCK AIR_BOX REMOVAL:
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/DAKOTA/UPGRADES/FABM/fabmdml.html
Just go to Sean Meldrum's FABM page and follow steps #1 thru #3 to remove
the stock air-box.

PICS: BEFORE & AFTER HOMEMADE PVC AIR-INTAKE MODIFICATION:
http://www.kersur.net/~hoegen/mods.html

Feel free to email me if you have further questions. I have had this set-up
for about 6 months now and it still works and looks great. There is no sign
of heat damage such as melting or warping. The set-up definitely increased
the trucks performance, plus it has a nice meaty sound when ya give it the
gas...yee haw! ;-)

Kevin Hoegen
99 Solar Yellow CC V6 Sport
mailto:hoegen@kersur.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elsmore [mailto:relsmore@udata.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 10:42 AM
> To: hoegen@kersur.net
> Subject: (no subject)
>
>
> Can you tell me what diameter pipe sleeve you used to connect the pvc
> pipe to the TB hat?
>
> Thanks!
> James
>
> --
> "If all else fails, pretend you don't know what's going on."
>
>



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:17:37 EDT