Homade ABS plastic Air-intake mod

From: Hoegen (hoegen@kersur.net)
Date: Sun Oct 03 1999 - 22:24:59 EDT


oops...wrong subject first time

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hoegen [mailto:hoegen@kersur.net]
> Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 10:22 PM
> To: Dakota-Truck@Buffnet. Net; relsmore@udata.com
> Subject: RE: (no subject)
>
>
> I bought all the parts at Home Depot.The black PVC or ABS plastic
> was the 3"o.d. I actually took my air hat into the store to check
> for the right fit. The long piece was about 1'. On one end I
> attached the K&N cone filter, and the other a 45 degree PVC
> connecter. To attach this assembly to the stock TB cover, I used
> a 2-clamp hose connector (the type that comes with a rubber boot
> already installed. Before attaching, I placed some silicone
> sealant around the outside of the air hat (due to the small
> ridges which surround the end). In this way I got a good seal
> when the assembly was tightened.
>
> By the way, the PVC and AIR HAT were painted with high temp flat
> black paint so that the pieces would match in both color and
> texture. I wanted it to LOOK stock to the uninformed eye ;-)(the
> Black PVC or ABS plastic has a glossy look which doesn't match
> the flat black coating of the stock air hat).
>
> The part number for the K&N filter was RU-3550, it is a 6" cone
> with a 3" boot (the part which goes over the PVC).
>
> I also made a small bracket from a piece of 1/4" metal, about 8"
> long. I bent this into a "Z" shape (1.5" on both ends) and used
> it as a support under the PVC (I drilled a hole in one end and
> placed it on one of the screws that were already installed in the
> wheel well (the one that held the old airbox). I simply used a
> bolt to secure it. Note: A small piece of heat resistant rubber
> should be placed between this metal bracket and the spot where it
> touched the PVC, otherwise the metal will "melt into" the PVC. No
> drilling was necessary as I simply slid the other end of the
> bracket under a hose clamp which went around the PVC (this clamp
> was already black and came with the K&N filter, how useful! ;-))
> This is how it stays attached to the PVC. You should place a
> small piece of high temp rubber between the metal and the PVC
> tubing to prevent the metal from melting or rubbing away the PVC
> at that spot.
>
> Don't forget to use the PVC sealant to attach the two pieces of
> PVC together. Very little is needed so I only bought the smallest
> bottle they had.
>
> The filter was the most expensive part, costing around $30. The
> other parts totaled about $20 - not bad at all!! Especially when
> compared with the $250+ you would need to spend to get a similar set-up.
>
> I've been meaning to update my site to place the
> instructions....maybe this week?? Meanwhile here are some links to help:
>
> INSTRUCTIONS: STOCK AIR_BOX REMOVAL:
http://www.cs.fredonia.edu/~stei0302/WWW/DAKOTA/UPGRADES/FABM/fabmdml.html
Just go to Sean Meldrum's FABM page and follow steps #1 thru #3 to remove
the stock air-box.

PICS: BEFORE & AFTER HOMEMADE PVC AIR-INTAKE MODIFICATION:
http://www.kersur.net/~hoegen/mods.html

Feel free to email me if you have further questions. I have had this set-up
for about 6 months now and it still works and looks great. There is no sign
of heat damage such as melting or warping. The set-up definitely increased
the trucks performance, plus it has a nice meaty sound when ya give it the
gas...yee haw! ;-)

Kevin Hoegen
99 Solar Yellow CC V6 Sport
mailto:hoegen@kersur.net

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elsmore [mailto:relsmore@udata.com]
> Sent: Sunday, October 03, 1999 10:42 AM
> To: hoegen@kersur.net
> Subject: (no subject)
>
>
> Can you tell me what diameter pipe sleeve you used to connect the pvc
> pipe to the TB hat?
>
> Thanks!
> James
>
> --
> "If all else fails, pretend you don't know what's going on."
>
>



This archive was generated by hypermail 2b29 : Fri Jun 20 2003 - 12:17:37 EDT