A 50x4 would be good, just to have a little extra power. You can always
keep you volume down but when you turn it up for a little bit, it would be
good to still have some more power left in the amp for a clear sound. Some
4 channel amps that i have found that have good sound are MTX's and
Alpine's. MTX's are a little bit expensive but they have a good signal to
noise ratio er db of 110. The higher the db, the better for clear sound but
they have a high distortion rate of .1% thats pretty dang high. I could
tell a difference when i put in a Power Acoustik and those amps vary of 94
to 98 db but they have a REAL low distortion rate of .01%. Ebay has some
good prices on mtx stuff and Power Acoustiks.
As for the wiring, the most important thing is the gauge size (AWG) of
the wire for + and -. The positive and negatives should be the same size of
wire. What Amperage is the amp your lookin at? Say 30 amps. You should
have somewhere of a 6 to 8 AWG wire running to the amp. If you are going to
use another amp, the wire should be 4 awg. Always use an inline fuse and
make sure its not more than 18 inches away from the battery. When grounding
it, the wire should be the same size and it should be short as possible.
You want to ground it to the body part of the truck, the metal part. If
thiers paint, scratch it away for better connection and use a star washer.
For the RCA lines, you want to use the best possible. Poor RCA cables can
reduce the voltage comming from your radio by half a volt. This leads to
lower input signal.
Well i hope some of this might help you out. Hope i wasn't a school
teacher tellin stuff you already know, heh. Good luck with the installation
of things.
Dan
>From: "Kyle Kozubal" <grndak4x4@home.com>
>Reply-To: dakota-truck@buffnet.net
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Subject: Re: DML: Car Amp Specs/Help
>Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 12:23:08 -0600
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Russ Blahetka <rblahetka@mediaone.net>
>To: <dakota-truck@buffnet.net>
>Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 11:59 PM
>Subject: Re: DML: Car Amp Specs/Help
>
>
> > there isn't one part of my system that runs at 4ohms in my
>truck...everything is
> > 2 ohm or less...i run a phoenix gold amp so it can handle that
>abuse....if
>you
> > take your speaker wires from your amp and from one speaker on to the
>next
> > (parallel wiring) with 2 4 ohm speakers your amp will see a 2 ohm
> >load....hence your amp will make more power IF it is rated for handeling
>a
>2 >ohm load...alot of amps don't and can literally burn up if not wired
> >corectly....what amp are you looking at?
> > Russ
>
>Thanks for the info Russ and others,
>I was just looking at some Pioneer amps, since all my other car audio in my
>truck is Pioneer. I also was looking on Ebay and there are some
>reconditioned Pioneer amps fairly cheap. If I did go with a Pioneer Amp, I
>would spend the extra money and use all high quality installation
>parts/cables since I was told that the installation hardware/wires/cables
>are what really help out and make an amp do its best work. Will a 35x4 watt
>amp really make a difference though in sound level/volume and sound clarity
>or should I go with more watts?? I dont want anything really loud, just
>louder and better sounding that what I currently have. I guess at this
>point
>all I know is that I want a 4 channel amp!!
>Kyle
>93 Dakota 4x4 V6; MSD 6-Offroad Ignition, MSD 8.5MM Super Conductors, Accel
>Super Coil, Borg Warner Select Brass Cap/Rotor, Autolite Copper
>Plugs(.050),
>Amsoil 2Stage Air Filter, Redline Watter Wetter, Cobra CB(8W), Firestik II
>Antenna with SS Quick Disconnect, Pioneer DEH45DH, Pioneer 6.5" 2way
>Speakers, Pioneer 5x7" 3way Speakers, Rhino Liner(double coated), Rancho
>RS5000's with Urethane Bushings, Grill Brush Guard, Hella 500 6" Round
>Driving Lights, Hella XL Low Beams, Tinted Windows All Around, Vent-Visors,
>Overhead Console, Tool Box(Full Of Recovery Gear/Tools), Hidden Hitch Class
>III, Amsoil in Front/Rear Diffs and in the NP321 Transfer Case
>
>
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